GR 11


Western Pyrenees

From Cape Higuer to Portalet

The western Pyrenees is characterised by its lush green landscape; its mountains are accessible, its peaks rounded and the chain presents us with a clearly-defined focal point until we approach Mount Orhi, the first 2,000-metre peak in the west. Here the mountains have been humanised, used for pasture and are dotted with barns and farmsteads which blend perfectly into their surroundings, painting a truly bucolic picture. These lands must have been inhabited since time immemorial as seen by the number of megaliths that appear in this area, some right along the side of the path.

Rain is abundant throughout the year in this part of the Pyrenees, —even in summer— fog closes in with great ease and proximity to the sea brings damp winds, especially in the most westerly areas. Snow persists only during the coldest months on the mountain tops and for much longer, until well into summer, in a few glaciers in the easternmost areas.

The GR 11 or Pyrenees Trail begins at Cape Higuer, where the range rises up from the waters of Txingudi Bay, close to Hondarribia. The red and white stripes begin to lead us up through the Aiako Harria (Aia Rocks) Natural Park and pass through the green mountains of the Bidasoa Valley, crossing fields, farmsteads and barns. The path heads into the Baztán Valley, passing through its capital Elizondo, then reaches Usategi Col, also known as Palomeras (pigeon hunting posts) —these woods are dotted with them, as well as abandoned bunkers from the Second World War— and climbs up to Quinto Real, the realm of the beech forest, with peaks rising above 1,000m. The route negotiates the north face of Mount Adi, and reaches Burguete, a passage point for pilgrims on the Way to Santiago de Compostela, before heading across the Aezkoa Valley. In Hiriberri the path leads on towards the Sierra de Berrendi and continues past the Sierra de Abodi. Mount Orhi (2,018m) appears ahead, rising above the Selva de Irati, the last refuge of the fir tree in the west. The red and white stripes take us over the Paso Tapla, lead us past the Santuario de Muskilda and mark our descent into Ochagavia in the Salazar Valley. The GR11 continues towards Isaba in the Roncal Valley, then heads into more rugged territory at the foot of Mount Ezkaurre on the way to Zuriza, which marks the crossing into the Aragón region. We are now in the Ansó Valley where all mountains stand above 2,000m, followed by the narrower Hecho Valley, draped with the magnificent Selva de Oza forest. The red and white stripes now lead us along the Aguas Tuertas Valley; here, the meandering river paints impossible zigzags among highland fields littered with cattle, which in summertime take good care of the abundance of green grass. The idyllic views of the Estanes lake, or the shadow of the imposing north face of Mount Anayet above the lakes, contrast with the ski lifts and the hustle and bustle in wintertime of the ski resorts of Candanchú and Formigal. The Balaitús massif ahead heralds the Central Pyrenees —land of the 3,000m peaks—.

GR 11


Central Pyrenees

From Portalet to Andorra

The Central Pyrenees is the land of the 3,000m peaks, its mountains become rugged, its forests remain in the lowlands and the greenness of the valleys gives way to the predominant grey of its peaks. In between, the black pine and upland meadows resist; then we see rock, scree slopes, blue lakes, glaciers, ridges and jagged peaks. No creature moves around this terrain quite like the Pyrenean Chamois, and we might also catch a glimpse of marmots as well as a distinguished inhabitant that is almost extinct in this area, the brown bear. Up above, distinguished hosts include lammergeyers, golden eagles, griffon vultures or capercaillie.

The Pyrenees Trail heads into the most rugged mountains. It is here where we will find many of the most important massifs in the Pyrenees. Instead of climbing its peaks, the Pyrenees Trail skirts round them, and at times passes so close that it is hard to resist taking a detour.

The GR11 heads up through the Aguas Limpias ravine until it reaches the Respomuso reservoir, at the foot of the Balaitús, the first 3,000m peak on the Atlantic side; it crosses the Tebarray col, snow-capped all year round, and looks out over the Picos del Infierno with their unmistakable marble strata, before dropping down towards the spa village of Panticosa. The path crosses the Cuello Alto de Brazato, and heads down towards Ara, taking the southern route around the Vignelmale massif. It then heads into the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park and climbs up the Ordesa valley, nestled between a never-ending stretch of walls, which bear witness to the immensity of this valley. In autumn, the explosion of colours is beyond compare. While the trail takes in the interior of the National Park, we cannot ignore the rocky sentries of Monte Perdido and Pico de Añisclo. Beyond this point the Circo de Pineta and La Larri plains await us. Then comes Parzán, we walk over the Urdizeto col and cross the Gistain valley, at the foothills of the Bachimala and Posets massifs. On the other side of the Estos valley, the trail drops down to San Jaime Bridge close to Benasque, and then heads up the Ballibierna valley and Ballibierna col (2,710m) leaving the Maladeta massif to the north, and the highest peak of the Pyrenees, Aneto (3,404m); The descent towards the Noguera Ribargorçana is very pleasant, dotted with lakes, and merely serves as an appetiser for what is in store in the Aigüestortes y Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, one of the most stunning and popular places to visit. This is an area of sheer granite rock faces dotted with numerous lakes, called “estanys” in Catalonian or “estanhs” in Aranese. La Punta Alta is the highest point although Els Encantats is probably better known. Further ahead we will encounter the Noguera Pallaresa and the Cardós valley, and we will cross the Vall Ferrara at the foot of Pica d’Estats —the highest point in Catalonia and last 3,000m peak heading eastwards — to later head into the territories of the Principality of Andorra.

GR 11


Eastern Pyrenees

From Andorra to Cap de Creus

We can claim we have reached the Eastern Pyrenees upon entering Andorra, just after the last of the 3,000m-high peaks, the Pica d’Estats. As before, the eastern side of the Pyrenees is also rugged, with granite ridges and peaks just short of the 3,000-metre barrier, like Coma Pedrosa, as the GR11 enters into Andorran territory. Next up, it’s Puig Carlit, an area littered with lakes and rocky ridges, where the presence of the mouflon, introduced from Corsica, has become a welcome feature. At present, several hundred can be seen. We then hit Cerdanya, an enormous valley/depression which can boast a singular feature as it is the only one to face east to west. Its climate and vegetation indicate we are imminently approaching the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, although we are not far away, we are still to see several prominent peaks, like the rocky twin-peaked Pedraforca, the Puigmal or the Canigó, which at 2,784m possesses the largest elevation gain throughout the Pyrenees with 2,500 metres rising above the Têt valley. The Pyrenees give a last flourish in the Sierra de L’Albera and the Cap de Creus, before they become submerged in the sea.

The Pyrenees Trail (GR 11) heads into Andorra rising over the Portella de Baiau, and crossing Cerdanya; it takes us past the Santuario de Núria, heralding a return to the more rugged landscape, and follows the frontier ridge, between peaks of more than 2,800 metres. The elevation is gentler around here after the Ter, and the contrast provided by the Mediterranean climate becomes increasingly apparent: deciduous and evergreen oak trees, as well as scrubland have finally won the battle over the fir trees and black pines of earlier stretches. This takes nothing away from the beauty of crossing the Alta Garrotxa, covered with dense woodland and dotted with rocky peaks that, though modest in height, seem to challenge the traveller. We reach the frontier town of La Jonquera which, despite not having many inhabitants, enjoys the hustle and bustle of a city. Here, the atmosphere is totally different; arable and livestock farming, farmsteads and the rural life. We are in the wine-growing region of Alt Empordà. In Llança we could almost touch the sea, but it won´t be until we reach Cap de Creus that the Pyrenees finally merge with the Mediterranean Sea.