The Trans-Pyrenees is a mountain route across the Pyrenees from west to east. It starts at Cape Higuer which is in Hondarribia, at the mouth of the river Bidasoa and ends at Cap de Creusvery close to Cadaqués. It is also identified as GR11. It has 810 Kms and 78.000 mts of accumulated height difference (adding ascent and descent). Obviously it can be done in the opposite direction.
The reasons why at the age of 59, with no experience in mountaineering, in good physical condition but not a force of nature, I decided to do the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing in one go and aloneare among those actions that occur to us, and that other people are not usually able to understand.
I left Cape Higuer on 25 August 2017 and arrived at Cap de Creus on 30 September. Here I will give you some details about this experience. If you want to know more about the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing, you can consult the website www.travesiapirenaica.com, the route repository www.wikiloc.com or the Prames Guide, among others.
Stones in the road
Even if occasional trips to the bush have been made, the real difficulties of a long crossing The full extent of this is only understood when it is being realised.
In a specific exit, you can get crushed and even make technical errors, but the problem here is that the next day you don't rest and you have to keep walking.o. On a day trip you take a backpack much lighter. If, for example, it is ill-fitting, hanging off the shoulders and not supported by the hips, it will probably not create any problems. If you do this with a heavier rucksack on a long trek, by the third day your shoulders and back can be a mess. On a long trek, mistakes are unforgiving and always take their toll.
On a day hike you only go out if the weather conditions are favourable. Here you walk in all weathers and conditions. On the one hand because overcoming these adversities is one of the challenges and, on the other hand, because if you start making excuses for going out, it will never end.
In the Trans-Pyrenees the climbs are long and hard and so are the descents.. In the Pyrenees the descents can be more complicated and dangerous than the ascents. The slopes are steep and, on many occasions, the rocky, irregular and uncomfortable paths. The stages in the Trans-Pyrenees do not give you any respite, you spend the day going up or down. To give a generic reference, Wikipedia indicates that a stage of 1,000 metres of accumulated height gain is of high difficulty. The guidebooks suggest doing the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing in 44 days, which means stages of 1,773 metres of accumulated height gain over 44 consecutive days.
Resources
It requires a good physical condition and, above all, a balanced health response. There is little point in having a strong back if the feet fail or vice versa. The whole body must be able to respond in unison in a balanced way.
It takes mental toughness and tenacity.
And the best equipment we can get, as the Pyrenees is a demanding environment.
Quick Guide GR 11
with everything you need to know before undertaking the Pyrenean Path
Approach
It is very personal and depends on the time available, budget, physical condition and objectives of each person. Some people will look for a The Trans-Pyrenees Sportive. His aim will be to break records and come within 8 days of that force of nature, Kilian Jornet. In such a Trans-Pyrenees race, there can be a lack of time to enjoy the scenery and the people. My physical condition was not up to the task, so I was not in my Transpirenaica has been focused on having time for the landscapes, taking lots of pictures, talking to the people I had to be very careful not to overtax my body so as not to have any problems, which is how it turned out. However, I wanted to do it all at once and in a somewhat anarchic and adventurous way without having everything tied up and reserved, which forced me to take a 60-litre rucksack, tent, bag and mat. In practice I think this last point was a mistake.
Let's trust the professionals
Nowadays we think that everything is solved by looking on the Internet. However, nothing replaces live advice from an experienced professional.
Looking on the internet I decided to take a single-layer tent, looking for low weight and ease of pitching. The condensation and humidity in the tent has been such that when I have used it I have not slept a wink. On the other hand, a single-layer tent does not allow you to put your rucksack inside and it is very difficult to manage inside the tent. The sleeping bag and the sleeping bag cover I used were also ineffective.
I anticipate that my opinion is to approach the trek in a different way and not to take a tent, a bag or a mat. But if someone decides to do so, I suggest that they go to a good shop, look for a professional with experience in Pyrenean treks and buy the best quality equipment they can afford. The forums are a complement but not the solution.
Weight, a key element
I have had the opportunity to meet mountaineers with experience in trekking. When we talked about what to take, they told me: get a quality 25-litre backpack (not a 60-litre one like the one I was carrying), carry everything that fits in it and no more. I think that's very good advice.
Just in case, you have to avoid them like the plague because they end up leading to excess weight. For example, I decided to take two 1-litre water bottles because I was told that in some areas of Catalonia there is not much water. I only used one. With tablets watermakers as a security element would have been enough, I have always been able to find water. Another example is that I carried a powerbank 20,000mAh and a 5,000mAh would have been enough. If instead of carrying 12 kgrs on my back I had managed to carry 7 kgrs, the effect on the enjoyment of the trip would have been significant.
Security
To move alone in such a magnificent natural environment and solve the problems that arise on their own provokes a special emotion. In solitary you can do the Trans-Pyrenees at your own pace and, in addition, you are more sociable, in fact these days I have never felt isolated.
However, in most parts of the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing no mobile coverage not even for emergency calls. There are more options on the stops and practically none outside them. This means that if you sprain your ankle you have to wait for someone to come by, which they certainly will. If this happens after 3pm you may have to endure the night on nolotil and ibuprofen. I sent my position at least once a day and my equipment, although not the most suitable, was in principle sufficient to get through the night without hypothermia. But now, being accompanied is very favourable from a security point of view.. On the other hand in difficult moments in a group you encourage each other.
A rescue expert talking about safety cited carry: mobile and powerbankwhistle, thermal blanket and reflective waistcoat to be seen by rescue teams. I have seen small satellite locators being carried. It is something to consider if you are going alone.
On logistics
There is little infrastructure on the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing. You have to plan carefully in advance where to sleep, where to eat, shops and cash dispensers (the refuges do not usually accept cards).
I've seen cookers, dehydrated food... I've used fuet, tins of sardines, chocolate and conventional food.
Wash the clothing is almost utopian because it does not dry out. However, today's quality thermal garments do not smell excessively even under these conditions.
Road and landscapes
The road is quite well marked. I only had some orientation problems in Cerdanya, especially in the stage. Puigcerdá - Planolesin the fields that cover the border in the Coll de la Creu de Meians area. In any case, even more so if you are alone, GPS is highly recommended. In my case a Garmin already discontinued Vista HCX with the map PYRENEAN MOLE8.0 where the GR11 is marked and, although it is not updated to 100% according to the current markings, it was a very useful reference. Disabling the track-log, with the brightness at minimum and turning on the GPS only in specific cases, a pair of batteries can last 10 days.
The GR11 prior to its arrival in Candanchú has been modified so that it passes through the Lizara refuge. However, I opted for the old route that goes straight to Candanchú via the Ibón d'Estanés as it saves a few kilometres. The first markings of the old road are faded but it is well signposted.
In the stage from Góriz to Pineta I decided to go along the Faixa deras Solas. Although it is a very aerial path, it was not dangerous, the views are some of the most incredible of the Trans-Pyrenees and you save going down the Arrablo and up the Añisclo. If the Góriz ranger confirms that the conditions are good, it is a highly recommended option.
They suggested that I avoid the descent to Panticosa I slept in the Brachimaña refuge and, following the instructions of its guard, I looked for a track that follows the pipes that go down to Panticosa. As I didn't have the track on my GPS and it was indicated that the track was not marked, I didn't do it. Two friends tried it and had a bad experience, as they did not find the track. If you have the track on your GPS you could consider this option.
At the stage of Planoles to Nuria I chose not to go down to Queralbs and follow the variant indicated after passing the Riu de Tosa, which climbs directly towards Nuria. The path is well marked, it is beautiful and I found it a recommendable option.
If we decide to go with light equipment (no tent, bag or mat) we have to take into account that we will have to avoid or extend some stages.This is not trivial in the Trans-Pyrenees, as there is no accommodation available at the end of the Trans-Pyrenees.
However, this approach allows you to carry less weight in your rucksack for the entire route, sleep on a mattress, have a hot shower, not be cold or damp, have dinner and a good breakfast every day. So, in my opinion, it is worth it.
The Trans-Pyrenees Crossing runs through truly magnificent natural surroundings and you can enjoy incomparable landscapes. As I have already mentioned, the area of Ordesa, Góriz and Faixa deras Solas is spectacular. Irati forest... There are no words to describe the amount of incredible landscapes you pass through.
I am very clear about what I liked least, the descent of the Añisclo at Pinetaendless, dangerous for the knees and to be avoided if possible.
About the dates
September should not be a bad month for walking in the Pyrenees. It is usually less hot. The snow in the high altitudes should have melted. The refuges, except for the ones that are always full: Góriz, the 3 refuges of Aiguestortes (Restanca, Colomers and Ernets Mallafré) and Nuria, are less crowded. However, this year the bad weather has come early and I have had a lot of water and even hail and snow. In this sense, my conclusion is that a Goretex jacket and a waterproof trousers shat better solution than a poncho for bad weather.
On the other hand, the 15th of September is the end of the season and from that date onwards you may find shelters closed. Therefore, if you decide to walk in September, it is best to finish no later than the 15th.
About the people
Going alone has a number of disadvantages but it also makes you tend to socialise more. Every day I have met people on the GR11 even though it is not a particularly busy route and I have generally walked alone.
However, I have met many great people from all backgrounds, but with a common link: their appreciation and respect for the mountain, for nature and for the beings that move through it.
Sleeping alone in a tent is isolating. Dinners in huts, lodges or small hotels allow you to meet people. and comment on the events of the day. In my opinion, these conversations and relationships are one of the great values of the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing.
In conclusion
If someone with a similar profile to mine wants to try the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing, my recommendations are as follows:
- Carry light equipment in a 25l backpack, no tent, no conventional bag (only a sleeping bag for the refuges), no mat. Of the best quality one can afford, with the advice of an experienced professional.
- Always sleep in a place with a roofmattress, hot shower, warmth, dinner and a proper get-together. This means having the accommodation booked.
- No racing, enjoying the landscape and people. The 44 days in the guides are a good reference. In my case it took 37 days, but I honestly believe that this is irrelevant. The point is to make the crossing to our liking.
- It is better to do it in sections of a few days and not all at once, at least on the first trip, to test yourself and your equipment. I have often seen people doing it all at once, resting one day out of seven, but, I insist, I think it is more convenient to do it in a few days. the Trans-Pyrenees in several timesfor example in 5-day "raids".
- Avoiding unpleasant stretches, the clearest example: the descent from Añisclo to Pineta.
However, the issue of the approach is a highly personal one.
More than a mountain crossing
From the Trans-Pyrenees we can draw many lessons, not only valid for tackling a mountain trek, but also for life in general and for the world of business in particular.:
- The importance of teamwork. If I had done the Trans-Pyrenees with a group, it would have been even more rewarding.
- The need to devote the necessary time to planning our projects before implementing them and, in this planning, to have the contribution of qualified professionals.
- An interest in analysing different alternatives, respecting all ideas, as the solution is not unique.
- The desirability of prototyping and limited experience in new projects.The results of this study will allow us to confirm that our initial assumptions are correct.
- The importance of valuing and being proud of what we haveFamily, friends, health, work... The Trans-Pyrenees Crossing helps us to appreciate what it means to have company, our own room and bathroom, a hot shower, drinking water, clean clothes or a clean and tidy bathroom. having a beer when we want it. A big problem in maintaining motivation is that we tend to get used to and not appreciate what we have. The Transpirenaica helps to re-discover all the good things we have and to appreciate the simple things, reminding us that life and happiness are not as complex as sometimes assumed.
The Trans-Pyrenees Crossing is, above all, an exercise in determination.. The mountain reminds us that in work and in life, no matter how bad the situation we are going through, if we keep fighting with determination and our heads held high, we will always end up enjoying a sunny dawn. Reinforcing this conviction is key to maintaining motivation.
For all these reasons, a trip on the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing can be of great interest to a group of friends or a company team. It is also a physical activity that complements the intellectual activity and allows the concept of "mens sana in corpore sano" to be applied, strengthens the team and builds closer relationships between participantsnot only in the execution, but also during the interesting planning exercise.
If you add to that the opportunity to enjoy some wonderful scenery and meet some great people, you can't ask for much more. I assure those who go that it will be an unforgettable experience.
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I didn't quite understand the phrase "are among those actions that occur to us men and that our women, who are far superior to us in intelligence, are not usually able to understand", as if the desire to do something or the taste for the mountains were exclusively in the penis. I personally know two women who have done it alone, camping freely, with all their luggage on their backs, without hostels, without any infrastructure, with as much autonomy as they could, and they have left their boyfriends at home. I will be the third one soon. And trips of this kind will be neither the first nor the last. And I have always met a lot of women, travelling alone.
Then, taking a tent, bag and mat gives you a brutal autonomy and the possibility of sleeping in wonderful places. I think that the people who choose this type of route and not the Camino de Santiago in the last stage, all marked out, with hotels, restaurants and full of people, is because we are fleeing from that, from that tourism and overcrowding. Maybe our backpack is heavier, but we are not going to stop enjoying ourselves for having a backpack weighing 15 kilos, which is not going to weigh more because we really don't need much to live. Better that than travelling with a card in your pocket.
Let our boyfriends sit and wait (or not wait, because this is not negotiable, it is part of us) that we are going to the GR!!!!.
Hello I am javier of 45 Anos, I am preparing the transpirenaica for July 2019 departure from Cadaques direction Basque country, To do in 45 days to enjoy to the maximum and not to have to load so much WEIGHT I am looking at hostels, rural houses or particulars of the way.
if anyone HAS ANY TEL, CONTACT GUIDE THAT COULD HELP ME TO ORGANIZE STAGE ROUTES AND REST STOPS IN AGRA-BLE PLACES
IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO DO GR11
THANK YOU I LEAVE MY EMAIL FJSALAS@ccoo.cat
Hi Javier, I don't have the contact guide you ask for. To plan the rest and refreshment points, which is important as the Trans-Pyrenees Crossing does not have a lot of infrastructure, use the stage descriptions on the Travesia Pirenaica website and also the Prames guide. Best regards