Coastal routes and wild nature. Guide to experience the Costa Brava from a campsite.

The Costa Brava has always had something of an emotional frontier. For those of us who come from the mountains, this Catalan coast is a Mediterranean that surprises, abrupt, rocky, full of small routes that lead to impossible coves. It is not just a summer destination, but a place to return to when you feel like walking by the sea, discovering a stretch of the Camí de Ronda without haste or simply listening to the echo of the waves in the middle of a cliff. It is a coastline that invites you to move.

And if you want to explore it at your leisure, without the restricted pace of a hotel, the campsite is the perfect base. Getting up in the middle of nature, having breakfast in the open air and heading straight out onto a trail changes the experience.

What makes the Costa Brava unique

The Costa Brava is an unexpected mix, a coastline of jagged rocks, pine trees sloping down to the sea and turquoise-water coves that look like something out of the Adriatic. But what makes it a perfect destination for hikers is not just the beauty of the landscape, but its geographical structure. The trails here are not tourist trails, but historical paths, used for decades to guard the coast and link small fishing villages.

The most emblematic is the Camí de Ronda, a set of coastal paths which, with discontinuities and variations depending on the area, runs along a large part of the coast. It is not a totally continuous path, and in some sections there are detours or built-up areas, but it is still the most genuine way to walk along the Catalan coast.

Unlike other Spanish coasts, the Costa Brava maintains a very particular balance between nature and services. You can take a route along a rough stretch between S'Agaró and Sant Feliu de Guíxols and, half an hour later, be having a drink in a coastal village without losing the feeling of having been in an almost wild area. This contrast makes it accessible without detracting from its authenticity.

Another distinctive factor is its versatility. The same coastline that invites you to walk also allows for cultural (Empúries, Sant Pere de Rodes), seafaring (Cadaqués, Tossa de Mar) or pure nature (Cap de Creus, Montgrí, Aiguamolls) getaways. And although in summer it attracts thousands of travellers, out of season it offers a perfect calm for those seeking outdoor routes. In fact, many sections are best enjoyed in spring or autumn, when the sun is warm but not overpowering. In winter the experience is more untamed and authentic, although some trails may be temporarily affected by the weather.

Campsites as a base for exploring the Costa Brava

Camping is particularly well suited to an active trip because the Catalan coast lends itself to a flexible pace. When you combine walks, impromptu swims and visits to villages, you appreciate having a “base camp” that allows you to improvise without relying on rigid schedules. Spending a few days surrounded by pine trees, close to the sea and with the freedom to organise your own pace is a very coherent way of getting to know the Costa Brava as a nature destination.

If you are looking for a camping in Costa Brava, the Yelloh! Village experience is particularly well suited to this type of getaway. The brand brings together 4- and 5-star campsites with well-cared-for services, spacious aquatic areas, comfortable accommodation and a family orientation that does not detract from the peace and quiet of those travelling as a couple or with friends. They work very well as a base for those who spend the day walking or exploring coves and need a place to disconnect without giving up the natural environment.

The variety of accommodation, from pitches to cottages to fully equipped bungalows, allows you to tailor the experience to suit the style of each traveller. And many of its campsites are located near coastal paths or well-known coves, which makes it easy to integrate them into a short getaway like the one I'm suggesting.

The Camí de Ronda as the hiking backbone of the Costa Brava

The Camí de Ronda®, the registered trademark that gives its name to an organised proposal of routes, offers two outstanding itineraries, one linear and one circular. They are not “the official route” of the coastline, but a structured way of walking along it.

The linear version, 43 km long between Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Begur, is a compact option to enjoy the coastline continuously. The circular version, 140 km long, starting and finishing in Girona, connects inland and coast, ideal for experienced hikers. Both can be done on your own or with the services of the organisation, which includes maps and materials. They also offer variants according to level: from gentle weekends of 18 km to complete eight-day hikes.

Regardless of the version chosen, to walk a section of the Camí de Ronda, whether it is the organised version or any of the traditional coastal paths, is to come into contact with the abrupt essence of the coastline, twisted rock, hidden coves that appear and disappear, natural tunnels, balconies facing the Mediterranean. A path that is never entirely demanding or entirely easy, and that is why it is so attractive.

Spring and autumn are perfect to enjoy it without extreme heat; in winter, when the tramontana sharpens the landscape, the experience is wilder; in summer, the coves invite you to swim constantly.

3-day getaway on the Costa Brava

The Costa Brava doesn't take a week to conquer. Even with three days you can get a very complete impression of the coastline. A gentle first contact, a more intense day on the cliffs and a last morning by the sea.

Day 1. Coves and gentle path. The Mediterranean at sea level

The stretch from S'Agaró to Sant Pol is one of the most elegant and accessible on the coast (section of the Camí de Ronda). Ancient staircases, clear rock, Art Nouveau architecture and small coves form an ideal route for “entering” the Costa Brava at your own pace.

Cala Sa Conca is a good spot for a first swim, with clear waters and a feeling of natural shelter. From there you can go to Cala Pedrosa, which is wilder and quieter. The idea of the day is not to add kilometres, but to soak up the atmosphere, walk, go down to a cove, return to the path, have a drink on a terrace and return to the campsite with a feeling of a perfect start.

Day 2. Cliffs and north wind. Cap de Creus and its lunar landscape

This is the most abrupt and photogenic side of the coastline. The Cap de Creus, shaped by the tramontana, has an almost extraterrestrial feel to it. Ochres, blacks, reds; sharp rocks; minimal vegetation.

An excellent route is the one that starts from the Cap de Creus lighthouse towards Cala Culip or Cala Jugadora. These are accessible trails but with uneven terrain. If you want to extend the day, Paraje de Tudela is a must, a protected landscape of rock formations that inspired Dalí. But be careful, although it is not usually very steep, the terrain is technical at some points. Returning to the campsite for a swim or a quiet dinner is the perfect balance after a day like this.

Day 3. Sea plan. Kayak, snorkel or final trail.

For the last day you can choose between water or trail.

In Llafranc or Tamariu it is common to rent kayaks and explore coves, small rocky inlets and protected stretches of coastline. There are areas with very clear waters, ideal for snorkelling.

(Note: the large sea caves are more concentrated towards Aiguablava and Fornells).

If you prefer walking, you can do a coastal section in the area of Cala Montjoi and Cala Calitjàs, in Cap de Creus, a simple path belonging to the PR-C 112, perfect for saying goodbye to the trip in the morning light. (It is not strictly Camí de Ronda, but it is just as spectacular).

And if you want to combine culture and sea, the ruins of Empúries and the walk to Sant Martí d'Empúries offer an impeccable blend of history and landscape.

Whichever option you choose, this third day serves to reconnect with what you liked the most. Sea, path or heritage. And always with the advantage of returning to the campsite unhurriedly, packing up calmly and returning with the sensation of having enjoyed the Costa Brava.