Junko Tabei: the pioneer who broke glass ceilings on the world's summits
As part of Women's Week, we remember Junko Tabei, whose 50th anniversary of her historic ascent of Mount Everest is celebrated on 16 May 1975. She was also the first woman to conquer the Seven Summits in 1992. Her life is an inspiring one of passion and struggle against gender stereotypes, reminding us that every mountain - physical or metaphorical - can be conquered with courage and bravery.
With her legacy, Tabei continues to inspire not only in the field of mountaineering, but in the constant struggle for equality and freedom. Her example reminds us that the true conquest is one that breaks the mould and pushes us to dare to dream big.
The first steps to freedom at altitude
Born on 22 September 1939 in Miharu, Fukushima, Japan, Junko Ishibashi (her maiden name) was the fifth of seven children. Her childhood was marked by a climate of war and violence. Just a few days earlier, on 1 September, World War II had begun, which would last until 1945, and two years earlier, Japan had invaded China, the second Sino-Japanese war.
Although she was considered frail as a child (she was only 1.47m tall as an adult), a school trip to Mount Nasu at the age of ten awakened her passion for the mountains. Despite her family's financial constraints, not forgetting that Japan had just emerged from war, Junko took every opportunity to climb.
A graduate in English literature from Showa University, the only university in the country where women could study, she joined the mountaineering club, where she soon came up against the restrictions imposed on women in a male-dominated environment. Some of her fellow members refused to climb with her because she was a woman, and there were those who accused her of being there only to find a husband. This situation prompted her to found the Ladies Climbing Club: Japan (LCC), the first women's climbing club in Japan, in 1969. Its motto, "Let's go on an expedition abroad by ourselves".marked the beginning of a revolution that encouraged countless women to defy imposed limits.
Everest: A feat that defied convention
Junko Tabei led her team to new summits. In 1970, she reached the summit of Annapurna III in Nepal, making history as the first Japanese female ascent of this mountain. This success not only cemented her reputation in the mountaineering world, but also prepared her for her greatest challenge: conquering Everest.
The Everest expedition was fraught with obstacles. After four years of waiting to obtain the necessary permits, Tabei and her team faced financial problems in starting the expedition, as well as social pressure at a time when women's ability to take such risks was questioned. They were even told that the best thing to do was to "stay at home and look after their children". With creativity and ingenuity, they made their own equipment using recycled materials - waterproof bags and gloves from car seats, and bought goose feathers from China to make the bags - and secured key sponsorships from the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper and Nippon Television.
On 4 May, an avalanche hit the camp at 6,300 metres, and Tabei was knocked unconscious for six agonising minutes until she was rescued by a Sherpa. Twelve days later, on 16 May 1975, she defied adversity and reached the summit, making history as the first woman to do so.
Beyond Everest: Seven Summits and Environmental Commitment
But Tabei did not stop. In 1992, she became the first woman to complete the Seven Summits, climbing the highest peaks on every continent, from Kilimanjaro in Africa to Puncak Jaya in Indonesia.
In addition to her mountaineering achievements, Junko dedicated herself to protecting the mountains. In 2000, she did postgraduate studies at Kyushu University, focusing on environmental degradation on Everest, and later headed the Himalayan Adventure Trust of Japan, promoting "clean-up" initiatives in mountains in Japan and the Himalayas.
A legacy that transcends the heights
Junko Tabei passed away on 20 October 2016 in Kawagoe, leaving behind an indelible legacy. Her life not only paved the way for future generations of mountaineers, but also challenged and transformed social norms about the role of women. In 2019, Google paid tribute to her life with a Doodle with the inspiring motto "Don't give up, keep on searching", and a mountain range on Pluto was named after Tabei Montes, in recognition of her pioneering spirit.
Now that 16 May marks the 50th anniversary of that monumental ascent, her name shines brighter than ever. At a time when - at last - more women are beginning to appear on the lists of expeditions, ultras and sporting challenges, to remember Junko Tabei is to recognise a pioneer who led not only in the sporting and physical realm, but also culturally and symbolically. Her steps in the snow carved a path for other women determined to grab an ice axe and look up, challenging not only the heights, but the conventions of her time.
(Here is a podcast from RNE, "Gente Despierta: Anthropotourism - Junko Tabei, mountaineer"in which, in a very entertaining way, they give an overview of his life".
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