The Pyrenees in motorhome and camper van

Col d'Ibardin. Pyrenees by motorhome. Photo: Eduardo Azcona
Col d'Ibardin. Pyrenees by motorhome. Photo: Eduardo Azcona

In 2016 we travelled through part of the Pyrenees in an old VW van from the 80s, three friends, getting to know the experiences of the people who live in these mountains. It was the trip "Territories by People"a great discovery, for proof here the Instagram of the trip. The old white and green VW was driving along the winding road on the Col d'Ibardin. All green, pure wilderness, dotted with farmhouses, meadows with latxa sheep. And a whole lot of days for freedom. The freedom of travelling on four wheels with the house on top of you. Now it is a Transit euroline that takes us on an adventure. They say that every van, every motorhome, is a reflection of its owners, and when I look at it, it tells me that it wants to see the world.

If there is one thing I realised on this trip, it was how fascinating the mountain range, the Pyrenees, is: 430 km long, linking two seas - the Bay of Biscay and the Mediterranean. A trip in a motorhome or van through the Pyrenees will take you to discover a varied, rich landscapeFrom the green of a humanised landscape of meadows and farmhouses, to the harshness of rocky mountains and great canyons, to the snow on the heights, but also to Mediterranean landscapes, where vines grow between farmhouses. Yes, this is the Pyrenees, and you are already taking your van or campervan into the heart of it.

Practical tips for touring the Pyrenees in a motorhome/ Photo: @nacho_zaitsev_ (IG)
Practical tips for touring the Pyrenees in a motorhome/ Photo: @nacho_zaitsev_ (IG)

As I know that by now you are impatient for us to get down to business, I am going to try to be practical first and foremost, in the following paragraphs we are going to talk about where we can stop or stay overnightI will propose 4 routes And we will talk a bit about some resources to make the trip easier. Ah! Don't forget the code of the responsible camper or van driver, who has to accompany us. You can click on the links to go to the different sections. I am also going to leave here some buttons so that you can jump to the routes that I propose.

Where can we locate ourselves, stop, park, spend the night?

A bit of regulation

Let's start by being aware of the difference between staying overnight and camping. So that we understand each other, we spend the night if we only park. Free camping is forbidden as a general rule in Spain. The moment you put up a roof, open an overhanging window, take out an awning, lower the legs, put up a wedge, set up a table and chairs, at that moment you are camping. As long as parking is allowed, and the length of your set-up allows it, there is no problem to stay overnight. As long as the vehicle is correctly parked, respecting the road markings and the time limitation, it is not relevant that the occupants are inside. The only limitation is the prohibition to deploy elements that overflow the perimeter of the motorhome or van.

If it is true that you you can find municipalities that explicitly prohibit the parking of caravans and AC's by municipal ordinance. Also for vans. Height barriers and signs are common. And sanctions are also common. It may be that they don't respect the General Traffic Regulations, but it's up to each individual to go around appealing fines. I am one of those who, if I see a sign, I avoid the problems by going somewhere else.

The passes follow one after the other in a constant meandering as we cross the Pyrenees. Photo: Travesía.
The passes follow one after the other in a constant meandering as we cross the Pyrenees. Photo: Travesía.

What about wilderness areas? In the Pyrenees there are countless Parks, which protect the territory and control the travellers who come to enjoy them. Each park has its own regulations that must be respected in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. As a general rule, it is forbidden to spend the night in the Pyrenean Parks and natural areas.. Let's go with this premise when we think of spending the night in their domains.

Needless to say, there are penalties for those who leave waste on the boundaries of parks - or outside them - protected areas, which represent an important environmental attraction. All waste must be properly emptied in designated places. But let us no longer do it for the sake of sanctions but for the sake of environmental respect.

And then... where can I spend the night

First of all, I am going to recommend you the app Park4nightwhich for me right now I would consider indispensable. Places to spend the night and tactical stops to rest during the day, fully updated. It has a great community that creates places and keeps them updated. The comments are invaluable. For travelling around Europe it is a great ally. Also interesting is the map of places of Furgoperfecto.

You will be able to find from car parks, roadside sites, to service areas and parking areas designed to accommodate motorhomes and vans. In this way you may feel more confident and comfortable. In addition, we offer services such as drinking water supply and tank emptying sites -one of the tasks to be carried out every few days. What to say that the camping will be ready to welcome the camper tourist with open arms. And a good shower, every now and then, doesn't hurt.

A night under millions of stars, the Pyrenees. Photo: Travesía.
A night under millions of stars, the Pyrenees. Photo: Travesía.

Routes

The green Pyrenees, travelling through the Atlantic Pyrenees.

  • First day. From Hondarribia to Donibane Garazi / San Juan Pie de Puerto
  • Day two. From Donibane Garazi / San Juan Pie de Puerto to Isaba.
  • Day three. From Isaba to Eugi.
  • Fourth day. From Eugi to Hondarribia

We suggest this route to get to know the most Atlantic Pyrenees. And what better way than starting from the Cantabrian Sea itself, at the Cabo de Higuerwhere the mountain range rises out of the water and rises in the Jaizkibel. The Peñas de Aia will be to the south as we head along the road towards the Bidasoa, with Lesaka y Beraat the base of Larrún. We have started from the sea and at Lizuniaga we will reach 200m. Once on French soil, the small villages of Iparralde, with their white and red houses, are a delight. Saresales in Dantxarinea Ainhoafinally San Juan del Pie de Puerto (end of first day). Valcarlos-Luzaide welcomes us at the border at the foot of the Ibañeta pass to get to Roncesvalles in Navarre. We go as pilgrims to Burguete. But the fascination with the Valley of the Aezkoa will take us to visit its small villages, Garralda, Aribe. A stop to visit the Orbaiceta Arms Factory is not a bad idea, or to get lost in the forests of Irati. We will cross the Pyrenean valleys of Navarre, in Jaurrieta we enter the Salazar Valley. The capital of the valley, OtsagabiaIt is also worth a stop for its photogenic rural architecture. It is also one of the entrances to the Irati ForestA narrow road leads us through forests to its heart in the houses of Irati. At the top is the Orhy, imposing, we will get close to it on the Larrau Pass (in winter the road is closed). This is how we re-enter France, Sainte-Engrâcein a continuous meandering of ascents and descents, searching for the summits in La Pierre Saint Martin and the Belagua pass. Once again in Navarre territory, Isaba (second night) is the capital of the Roncal Valley. The high peaks begin, the green hills are left behind and the rock and snow arrive. It remains to return to the south, in a more Mediterranean landscape of oak and holm oak. At Lumbier we can walk through the interior of the gorge, with vultures soaring overhead and the sound of the water in the background. The spell of the Pyrenees once again takes us into its entrails, in Eugi welcomes the Quinto Real and its forest. We will go uphill to change slopes in the impressive Les AldudesUrepel, Aldudes, Baigorry. Crossing the border again at the Alto de Izpegi to visit the capital of the Valley of Baztanits capital Elizondo (third night). We head towards the sea along hidden roads to close this very special journey through the greenest part of the Pyrenees.

In the heart of the Pyrenees, through the realm of the three-thousanders.

  • First day. From Jaca to Cauterests.
  • Day two. From Cauterests to Gavarnie.
  • Day three. From Gavarnie to St Lary.
  • Fourth day. From St Lary to Benasque.
  • Fifth day. From Benasque to Aínsa.
  • Day 6. From Aínsa to Torla.
  • Seventh day. From Torla to Jaca.

A route that will take us to the depths of the Pyrenees, to the kingdom of the three-thousanders, ignoring the borders to get to know the two sides of the mountain range. Our starting point will be JacaIt is well worth strolling through the old town and sampling some tapas or visiting the citadel. From this base camp we can visit the San Juan de la Peña Monastery. The old monastery rises under the reddish rock. A walk can lead us to the Balcony of the Pyreneesa viewpoint overlooking the mountain range. Departing from Jaca, the route will take us back to the Tena ValleyWe will pass through Sabiñanigo, Biescas and Sallent de Gállego. The slopes of Formigal and the rocky mass of the Foratata will warn us of the arrival of the Puerto del Portalet which will introduce us to the French side. A stop could be to visit the Chemin de la Maturethe road carved into the rock. Here we propose a route through the emblematic passes of the Tour de France, such as the Col de Aubisque and the pass of Val d'Azun du Soulor (in winter these passes may be closed). We can visit Lourdes where a sanctuary designates the grotto where the Virgin Mary was seen to appear. The afternoon of the first day on the road will take us to Cauterets (first day). We will be able to visit Pont D'EspagneThe pine trees grow from the rock itself and the place is overflowing with water, and the Lutour and Cerisey waterfalls. Today will be a quiet day to absorb all the grandeur that this area of the Pyrenees National Park has to offer. The village of Gavarnie (second night) is enchanting and breathtaking is the view over the circus. A 2 hour walk takes us to the L`Hotellerie du Cirque and the Cirque and Waterfall of GavarnieThe largest waterfall in France. We continue on our route, at the top is the Pic de Midi and reach the mythical summit of the Puerto del Tourmalet. Our third night will be spent in St Lary, a paradise for skiers. The next day we will change slopes to visit the Benasque Valley, but before that the route will take us through emblematic places of the Pyrenees. Bagnères-de-Luchonunder an endless three thousands, a place with a lot of history. On Benasque (fourth night) we will be able to escape to make the excursion to Forau D'AiguallutThe Aneto, with its 3,404 metres, the waters of the glacier disappear. This excursion in the heart of the Posets-Maladeta Natural Park will take us 1h15 to reach the Forau. We go back to the south of the mountain range, where the valleys go up towards the mountains and become canyons like the one of Añisclowhich we can visit from Aínsa (fifth night). Aínsacapital of the former Kingdom of SobrarbeThe medieval essence is preserved in its narrow streets, in the square surrounded by arches, in its castle or church and tower. The Añisclo Canyon were the starters of the feast that the park of Añisclo has prepared for us. Ordesa and Monte Perdido. From Torla (sixth night) we will reach the Pradera de Ordesa (in high season the transit is closed to vehicles and we will have to access by bus), already in the heart of the Ordesa valley, with rocky walls that will lead us on our excursion to the Horsetail. At the top, the Monte Perdido massif will observe us from its vantage point. The only thing left to do now is to return, with our minds clouded by what the trip has brought us. We close our return route in Jaca (seventh day).

Eastern Pyrenees, Catalan and Andorra.

Cross-border route through the Pyrenees that ends in the Mediterranean.

  • First day. From Cap de Creus - Cadaqués to Camprodon.
  • Day two. From Camprodon to Puigcerdà.
  • Day three. From Puigcerdà to La Seu d'Urgell.
  • Fourth day. From La Seu d'Urgell to Vielha e Mijaran.
  • Fifth day. From Vielha e Mijaran to Saint-Girons
  • Day 6. From Saint Girons to Ax-les-Thermes
  • Seventh day. From Ax-les-Thermes to Perpignan.
  • Eighth day. From Perpignan to Cadaqués.

On this eight-day route we propose a journey through the Catalan Pyrenees, Andorra and the French Eastern Pyrenees. As it could not be otherwise, we will start in the Mediterranean Sea itself, where the mountain range emerges from the waters in the Cap de Creus. From Cadaqués we enter the mountains, in the Sierra de Rodes, looking for the shelter of the wild. The first night will be spent in Camprodon. The Garrotxavolcanic landscape, then to the south the Cadí mountain rangeThe route has already introduced us to the mountains, the Puigmal with its 2,913 metres is proof of this, and will make you wonder how fast the mountain range rises, if only yesterday you were touching the waters of the Mediterranean. We will spend the night in Puigcerdà (second night). Now it's time to taste the Pyrenees country, Andorraand through it, at the end of the day we will already arrive in La Seu d'Urgell. During the day you can enjoy shopping in shopping centres, but I recommend that you set aside some time for an excursion into the Andorran mountains. The route introduces us to the most abrupt and spectacular Catalan Pyrenees, the Aigüestorte and Sant Maurici Lake is proof of this. The Val d'AranIsolated for centuries, it has preserved its identity and its history. This is how we reach its capital Vielha e Mijaran (fourth night). The only thing left to do now is to return, but we will do so via the northern slope on French soil, although don't lose heart as we still have half of the trip to do. The fifth night is reserved for Saint-GironsThe capital of Couserans. We will be able to visit the Regional Nature Park of the Ariège Pyreneesthe highlight of which is the Pica d'Estatswith 3,143 metres. Ax-les-Thermes (sixth night) as the name suggests is a thermal spa resort with three spas, and is the gateway to the beautiful valley of OrluWe will discover beautiful villages and mountains. We are getting closer to the sea again, in Perpignan (seventh night). To return and close our route in Cadaqués.

Trans-Pyrenees. From the Cantabrian to the Mediterranean.

We can link sections of the three routes mentioned above, choosing the areas that most interest us, north or south of the mountain range. The itineraries are infinite, all with a common element, the grandeur of these mountains.

Pyrenees by motorhome / Photo: Lawton Cook
Pyrenees by motorhome / Photo: Lawton Cook

Follow the code of the responsible motorhomer or campervan driver

First of all, it is important to bear in mind that when travelling by motorhome you will not be the only one to do so - as is obvious -, so you have to follow an implicit code for your own well-being and that of others. To enjoy our motorhome, we must be respectful of those around us. Driving responsibly is the main thing, and respecting the environment we enjoy is the main thing too.

This includes that when parking, parking should be done discreetly, and ask before parking if the place is available. It is also necessary to take care of the parking place and to empty the tanks properly -there are points and places for this purpose, which should be consulted.

Creating a cordial relationship with other travellers will help to make the experience more pleasant, so do not obstruct the overall view of the site - the landscape - and engage in dialogue whenever possible with like-minded travellers and locals alike.