{"id":34285,"date":"2023-01-12T19:12:24","date_gmt":"2023-01-12T18:12:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/?p=34285"},"modified":"2023-01-12T19:12:29","modified_gmt":"2023-01-12T18:12:29","slug":"alex-txikon-hiver-manaslu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/fr\/alex-txikon-hiver-manaslu\/","title":{"rendered":"A la conqu\u00eate du Manaslu hivernal : comment Alex Txikon et son \u00e9quipe ont-ils atteint le sommet ?"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"A la conqu\u00eate du Manaslu hivernal : comment Alex Txikon et son \u00e9quipe ont-ils atteint le sommet ?\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/GpZ-0-PJcsg?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Le Manaslu hivernal pour Alex Txikon et son \u00e9quipe<\/strong>&nbsp;(nous en reparlerons plus tard car il y a eu une controverse sur la fa\u00e7on dont la nouvelle a \u00e9t\u00e9 trait\u00e9e). Il s'agissait de son deuxi\u00e8me sommet hivernal apr\u00e8s l'ascension du Nanga Parbat en 2016. Ils ont profit\u00e9 d'une fen\u00eatre relativement courte de conditions stables pour monter du C3 (6 800 m) au sommet \u00e0 8 163 m et redescendre au camp de base. \"<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/alex-txikon-manaslu-was-more-dangerous-than-i-expected\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bonnes conditions, mais plus difficiles et dangereuses que pr\u00e9vu.<\/a><\/strong>surtout entre le camp 1 et le camp 2, en raison de passages extr\u00eamement compliqu\u00e9s entre les s\u00e9racs, comme une petite cascade de glace du Khumbu\", a d\u00e9clar\u00e9 Txikon \u00e0 l'AFP.&nbsp;<em>Explorersweb<\/em>. L'\u00e9quipe d'alpinistes n\u00e9palais a atteint le sommet avec Alex Txikon. Les N\u00e9palais de la&nbsp;<em>Sept sommets<\/em>&nbsp;Ils ont utilis\u00e9 de l'oxyg\u00e8ne suppl\u00e9mentaire, ce que Txikon n'a pas fait lors de son ascension. Pour sa part, Simone Moro, qui \u00e9tait indispos\u00e9, s'est pratiquement retir\u00e9 du C2 au BC seul, une d\u00e9cision que Txikon a qualifi\u00e9e de&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/AlexTxikon\/status\/1612067135408279553\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">un geste pour lequel il a publiquement exprim\u00e9 sa gratitude<\/a><\/strong>. Rappelons que tous deux participent \u00e0 cette ascension hivernale pour la troisi\u00e8me ann\u00e9e cons\u00e9cutive, avec deux tentatives infructueuses, et qu'\u00e0 cette occasion ils ne partageront pas le sommet. Sommet hivernal du Manaslu,<a href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/expediciones\/segun-the-himalayan-data-base-la-ascension-de-los-sherpas-y-alex-txikon-es-la-quinta-invernal-del-manaslu-hay-otros-criterios\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">&nbsp;<\/a><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/expediciones\/segun-the-himalayan-data-base-la-ascension-de-los-sherpas-y-alex-txikon-es-la-quinta-invernal-del-manaslu-hay-otros-criterios\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pas le premier selon&nbsp;<\/a><\/strong><em><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/expediciones\/segun-the-himalayan-data-base-la-ascension-de-los-sherpas-y-alex-txikon-es-la-quinta-invernal-del-manaslu-hay-otros-criterios\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">La base de donn\u00e9es sur l'Himalaya<\/a><\/strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/expediciones\/segun-the-himalayan-data-base-la-ascension-de-los-sherpas-y-alex-txikon-es-la-quinta-invernal-del-manaslu-hay-otros-criterios\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">&nbsp;<\/a>(Desnivel)<\/em>qui, selon ses crit\u00e8res, consid\u00e8re l'hiver m\u00e9t\u00e9orologique (du 1er d\u00e9cembre au 28 f\u00e9vrier) par opposition \u00e0 l'hiver astronomique (du 21 d\u00e9cembre au 21 mars), crit\u00e8res qu'elle a toujours maintenus.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/AlexTxikon\/status\/1612108329702105089\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-twitter wp-block-embed-twitter\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"550\" data-dnt=\"true\"><p lang=\"eu\" dir=\"ltr\">\ud83c\udfa5 <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/Manaslu?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">#Manaslu<\/a>: Laburpen bideoa \/ R\u00e9sum\u00e9 vid\u00e9o\ud83d\udc47<br>Egilea \/ Auteur : Aitor B\u00e1rez - Avista Multimedia<a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/wintersummits?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1TP17Les chiffres de l'hiver<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/alextxikon?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">#alextxikon<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/vn1o1zG9Yx\">pic.twitter.com\/vn1o1zG9Yx<\/a><\/p>- Alex Txikon (@AlexTxikon) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/AlexTxikon\/status\/1612108329702105089?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8 janvier 2023<\/a><\/blockquote><script async src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Nous parlons maintenant de la controverse (ou du bruit) qui accompagne toujours ces \u00e9tapes. Vous pouvez voir dans le&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/DarioDesnivel\/status\/1612102485300367360\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Le tweet de Dario Rodriguez<\/a>Le r\u00e9dacteur en chef de Desnivel, comment les m\u00e9dias russes ont rapidement critiqu\u00e9 la fa\u00e7on dont la nouvelle a \u00e9t\u00e9 titr\u00e9e. Selon eux, il aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 plus juste de titrer \"l'\u00e9quipe n\u00e9palaise a fait l'ascension, avec O2, et il y avait un \u00e9tranger dans l'\u00e9quipe : Alex Txikon (qui ne l'a pas utilis\u00e9)\". Dario demande un avis, dans un grand \u00e9lan de transparence. L'exp\u00e9dition a \u00e9t\u00e9 compar\u00e9e \u00e0 la premi\u00e8re exp\u00e9dition hivernale de Nirmal Purja au K2 en 2021. Txikon n'a pas cach\u00e9 qu'une partie de l'\u00e9quipe allait utiliser de l'oxyg\u00e8ne artificiel et des cordes fixes pour l'ascension, et qu'il la ferait sans oxyg\u00e8ne. Est-il consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme \u00e9tant sans oxyg\u00e8ne alors qu'une partie de l'\u00e9quipe l'a utilis\u00e9 ? Cela nous am\u00e8ne \u00e9galement au d\u00e9bat sur le style de l'ascension. Et ce qui est clair, comme l'a \u00e9galement soulign\u00e9 Txikon, c'est que son ascension du Manaslu ne peut \u00eatre compar\u00e9e \u00e0 celle de<strong>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.desnivel.com\/cultura\/asi-fue-la-primera-ascension-invernal-del-manaslu-1984-por-los-polacos-maciej-berbeka-y-ryszard-gajewski\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">les Polonais Maciej Berbeka et Ryszard Gajewski en 83\/84<\/a>&nbsp;<\/strong><em>(Desnivel)<\/em>sans oxyg\u00e8ne artificiel, sans sherpas et par un itin\u00e9raire inhabituel. \u00c0 une autre \u00e9poque, avec d'autres moyens. En ce qui concerne ces discussions sur le style, j'ai trouv\u00e9 cet article de Stefan Nestler tr\u00e8s int\u00e9ressant.<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/abenteuer-berg.de\/en\/style-debate-after-winter-success-on-manaslu\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">D\u00e9bat sur le style apr\u00e8s le succ\u00e8s hivernal au Manaslu<\/a><\/strong>\".<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-rich is-provider-twitter wp-block-embed-twitter\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\" data-width=\"550\" data-dnt=\"true\"><p lang=\"es\" dir=\"ltr\">C'est l'avis de <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/russianclimb?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@russianclimb<\/a> de la fa\u00e7on dont nous titrons les nouvelles... une r\u00e9flexion int\u00e9ressante... quelle est votre opinion ? <a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/HfYXl8WkqO\">https:\/\/t.co\/HfYXl8WkqO<\/a><\/p>- Dar\u00edo Rodr\u00edguez (@DarioDesnivel) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/DarioDesnivel\/status\/1612102485300367360?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">8 janvier 2023<\/a><\/blockquote><script async src=\"https:\/\/platform.twitter.com\/widgets.js\" charset=\"utf-8\"><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":34286,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"video","meta":{"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","episode_type":"audio","audio_file":"","cover_image":"","cover_image_id":"","duration":"","filesize":"","date_recorded":"","explicit":"","block":"","filesize_raw":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3002],"tags":[],"series":[],"class_list":["post-34285","post","type-post","status-publish","format-video","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actualidad","post_format-post-format-video"],"episode_featured_image":"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Manaslu-invernal-de-Alex-Txikon-y-su-equipo.jpg","episode_player_image":"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/Caratula-Podcast-Maldita-Montana_1500x1500_72pp-p_.jpg","download_link":"","player_link":"","audio_player":false,"episode_data":{"playerMode":"dark","subscribeUrls":[],"rssFeedUrl":"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/fr\/feed\/podcast\/maldita-montana","embedCode":"<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"5WeIg9bfAo\"><a href=\"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/fr\/alex-txikon-hiver-manaslu\/\">Conquistando el Manaslu invernal: as\u00ed fue la cima de Alex Txikon y su equipo<\/a><\/blockquote><iframe sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" src=\"https:\/\/travesiapirenaica.com\/fr\/alex-txikon-hiver-manaslu\/embed\/#?secret=5WeIg9bfAo\" width=\"500\" height=\"350\" title=\"\u00ab\u00a0Conquistando el Manaslu invernal: as\u00ed fue la cima de Alex Txikon y su equipo\u00a0\u00bb &#8212; Traves\u00eda.\" data-secret=\"5WeIg9bfAo\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" class=\"wp-embedded-content\"><\/iframe><script>\n\/*! 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