Alex Txikon ends his winter expedition to Annapurna

ByTravesía Pirenaica
  • The climbing team is already dismantling the CB of Annapurna.
  • "I think it would be foolhardy to stay, given the exceptionally good, but at the same time challenging and risky conditions on Annapurna," says Alex Txikon.

Alex Txikon, Chhepal, Magkpa, Ang-gyalu, Mayla, MigTemba, Lakpa, Tashi, Moeses, Mattia and Andres have called the winter expedition #AnnapurnaColdPeaks to an end. After more than a month and a half since the start of the adventure, the climbing team has decided not to climb again due to the difficult conditions on Annapurna. In short, it has been an expedition that has consisted of three rotations at altitude in which, for different reasons, once at C3 (6,400m) they have had to turn back. "We have already taken too many risks. It's one thing for me to get caught, but not for my companions," confesses Alex Txikon.

Along these lines, the man from Lemoa explains that "Annapurna has told us enough, we have tried, we have the strength and the desire, but perhaps I lack the hunger for the summit, having reached the summit of Manaslu a year ago", and adds that "everyone here is mainly here for me, and if I leave, nothing happens. It's another thing if they leave, that's not a good thing to do to satiate our summit ego". 

"We fought for it, we carried everything ourselves, we equipped everything ourselves. I made a mistake on my own and we all stood up. I think it would be foolhardy to stay, given the exceptionally good, but at the same time compromising and risky conditions that Annapurna is in, in constant transformation," says Txikon. 

According to CB, it has not been an easy decision, and to make matters worse, the sky, except for the last two days, has not stopped roaring. So, as Txikon warns, "I cannot allow myself the luxury of exposing my companions any more, and so, after talking it over and meditating on it all morning, we have decided to say yes to guaranteed life, and we will leave behind our pretensions of continuing to try".

"Special thanks to all my colleagues, we have suffered and also enjoyed it, to all those who have followed us, and to sponsors and friends. Graccie mile, obrigado, eskerrik asko, thank you very much and धन्यवाद", concludes Alex Txikon.

Alex Txikon advances and reaches the C2 of Annapurna (5.600m approx) taking advantage of the window of good weather.
Alex Txikon advances and reaches the C2 of Annapurna (5.600m approx) taking advantage of the window of good weather.

Alex Txikon reaches C3 and returns to BC after having to give up the material he had deposited in a large crevasse.

  • The climbing team reached C3 this morning, but due to a collapsed ice structure, the camp depot has disappeared.
  • At the moment, the entire team is resting at CB.

The entire team of climbers is now at the CB of Annapurna after reaching C3 (6,400m) this morning on the third high altitude rotation of their winter expedition #AnnapurnaColdPeaks. Unfortunately, on arrival, they found that the cache (stakes, ice screws, 2,000 metres of rope, gas, 3 snowbound tents) had "disappeared", due to the collapse of one of the ice structures. 

According to the Bizkaarian, "we have lost the entire C3 tank, and not because of the wind, but because of the collapse of one of the ice structures, which has caused the disappearance of practically all the material we had in this camp, except for a few coils of rope". 

Specifically, what has happened is that "the area where the deposit was located in C3 has given way, forming a crack through which all the material has been lost. This is a complex terrain, with a set of seracs that could be likened to an icefall. The way Annapurna is at the moment, with no precipitation and very low temperatures, there is practically no safe place," says Txikon. This has forced the entire team to return to BC.

"It's a pity because we are very strong and it's the second time we have had to return to CB from C3 feeling good... But we didn't have the material," said Txikon. 

At the moment, the entire team is resting at the CB of Annapurna and assessing the possibilities that the mountain may offer in the coming days.

Alex Txikon advances and reaches the C2 of Annapurna (5.600m approx) taking advantage of the good weather window (Updated 10/01/2024)

  • The entire climbing team reached C2 this morning, although Andrés Navamuel and Ang Gyalu have dropped back down to CB.
  • In just two and a half hours, they covered the stretch between C1 and C2, in good weather and plenty of sunshine.

Alex Txikon, Ang Gyalu, Tashi, Lakpa, Moises, Passang Nurbu, Ming Temba, Pemba, Andres Navamuel and Mattia Conte reached Annapurna C2 (5,600m approx) this morning on the third high altitude rotation of their winter expedition #AnnapurnaColdPeaks. Unlike yesterday, the climbers were able to take advantage of the window of good weather today. Likewise, Andres Navamuel and Ang Gyalu have returned to BC after having rested a little on C2.

It took the team about two and a half hours to cover the distance between C1 (5,150m) and C2 (5,600m approx). The weather conditions gave the climbers a break and, with a good pace and good weather, they were able to climb without any problems, doing the whole route in the sunshine. At the moment, the climbers are inside their bags, as they warn that the temperature outside the tents is around minus 25º Celsius.

The new weather forecast seems to have improved, which favours the mountaineers' ascent strategy. If things stay as forecast, tomorrow the team's objective is to reach C3, and if they feel as well as they have done so far, they will climb to the summit tomorrow night.

Alex Txikon starts his third high altitude rotation of his Annapurna winter with a keen eye on the wind

Alex Txikon starts his third high altitude rotation of his Annapurna winter with a keen eye on the wind (Updated 09/01/24)

  • Txikon, Chhepal, Ang Gyalu, Tashi, Lakpa, Moises and Mattia Conte will spend the night at C1 (5,150m), while Passang Nurbu, Ming Temba and Pemba will climb tomorrow from BC directly to C2 (5,600m approx).
  • They climbed with a heavy load, but even so, they were able to overcome the more than 1,000m difference in altitude from BC in just over 4 hours, having had to stop for about an hour as a result of a very strong avalanche.

Alex Txikon, Ang Gyalu, Tashi, Lakpa, Moises and Mattia Conte are already resting at C1 Annapurna (5.150.m), after starting this morning the third high altitude rotation of their winter expedition #AnnapurnaColdPeaks, very aware of the wind due to the strong gusts recorded at altitude. Passang Nurbu, Ming Temba and Pemba will climb tomorrow from BC directly to C2 (5,600m approx).

The team of climbers set off at around 11:15 (Nepalese time) on the third high altitude rotation of the expedition, a week after their return to BC following the second high altitude rotation which served to equip C3 (6,400m). Thus, despite having climbed with a lot of weight and having had to stop for about an hour as a result of a very strong avalanche, the climbers reached C1 in just 4 hours, at around 15:15.

According to Txikon, "leaving base camp and overcoming the more than 1,000m of altitude difference up to C1 in little more than 4 hours, bearing in mind that we were stopped for an hour due to a very strong avalanche, is something that shows that we are doing very well". In relation to the avalanche, Alex confesses that: "5 minutes more, and it would have wiped us off the face of the earth. It was the strongest avalanche since we've been here.

At the moment, the climbers are resting in C1, but, above all, very attentive to the weather forecasts, due to the strong wind that is blowing at altitude. As they report, the wind gusts could be reaching up to 50 km/hour. So, weather and mountain conditions permitting, the climbing team will set off tomorrow for C2.

Alex Txikon back in BC after reaching and equipping C3 in the second high altitude rotation of his winter expedition to Annapurna (Updated 02/01/2024)

  • The climbing team made a good portage from C2 to C3 yesterday, but had to retreat to CB for safety because of the strong wind.
  • In figures, they did 1,500m positive with more than 20 kg in their backpacks and 2,500m negative.
  • In the words of Alex Txikon: "We have made an optimal altitude rotation".

Alex Txikon, Chhepal, Passan Nurbu, Mig temba, Pemba Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa are already at CB (4,200m) resting, after the great job of portage from C2 (5,600m approx.) to C3 (6,400m) that they did yesterday. Mattia Conte and Tashi are resting in C1 (5.150m). In this way, the team of climbers completed yesterday the second altitude rotation of #AnnapurnaColdPeaks that they started 3 days ago, because, for safety reasons, due to the strong wind blowing, they had to retreat to BC.

Almost a week after completing the first rotation, on 30 December, the mountaineers began the second high altitude rotation of their winter expedition to Annapurna with an attack that was "perhaps too ambitious", says Alex Txikon. To do so, they set off in several groups in the direction of C1. The first group, formed by Mattia and Andrés, set off at around 9:45 a.m. and at around 11:00 a.m. Alex set off alone, although closely followed by another group. That same night some slept in C1 and others in CB to go directly up to C2. 

On 31 December, some of them, such as Txikon, Pemba and Mig Temba, carried 20-22 kilos (tents, food, materials, etc.) from C1 to C2, where they spent the night. They also carried Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa's things, who carried them directly to C3, and then returned to C2 for the night. 

So, yesterday the team of climbers deposited the rest of the necessary material in C3, carrying more than 20 kg on their backs from C2 to C3. In figures, they did around 1,500m in positive and 2,500m in negative to return to rest at CB, where they arrived quite fatigued. "We arrived at a very reasonable time at C3, but the weather conditions were much more adverse than we had imagined and what we had been told. So, that attack, which we had thought would remain at C4, or even a possible summit attack, we decided to abort it in order to continue living another day", explains Txikon.

The Bizkaarian also confesses that "obviously, it's a psychological blow because people see themselves very high up, but our success, honestly, has been knowing how to handle the pressure and knowing when to turn around, especially when things don't look favourable for us or for a possible attack on the summit. And, as we have corroborated today, we would have had a serious problem up there, as there have been very strong gusts of wind at high altitudes". And he adds that: "the work we did yesterday was very hard, yes, but I dare say that we made an optimal rotation at altitude, arriving and depositing all the necessary material at C3, such as tents, ropes, etc.".

Today is a quiet day in BC, recovering strength and energy to prepare for the third high altitude rotation of the #AnnapurnaColdPeaks expedition. The team is also keeping a close eye on the weather forecasts, so that when the mountain and weather conditions allow, they can look for another attack. 

Alex Txikon is now resting at C2 in the second rotation at ALTURA of his winter expedition to Annapurna (Updated 31 December 2023)

  • The climbing team reached C2 in just 2 hours, having carried more than 20 kilos on their backs.
  • Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa will spend the night at C3 to deposit the rope there.
  • The intention is to continue to gain altitude tomorrow.

Alex Txikon, Chhepal, Passan Nurbu, Mig temba, Pemba and Mattia Conte are already at C2 of Annapurna (5,600m approx), after having climbed in just over 2 hours from C1 to C2 loaded with more than 20kg. For their part, Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa will spend the night at C3 to leave the rope there for the second high altitude rotation of #AnnapurnaColdPeaks. 

"We're all very well, it's a very cold course, we didn't get any wind, but even so, it was a very cold day. Although, we know what we've come for, this is winter", said Alex Txikon. The Bizkaarian indicated that some of them, such as himself, Pemba and Mig Temba, carried 20-22 kilos when they set off from C1, including tents, food and the belongings of those who had climbed to C3, that is, Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa. "It took me about two hours to climb from C1 to C2, because it was cold and I took the opportunity to go fast", he declared.

Along these lines, Txikon also commented on the ascent strategy: "Lakpa, Ang Gyalu and Magkpa are spending the night at C3 to deposit rope, so that tomorrow we can climb more rested". He finished by explaining that "now we have to eat and drink, recover our energy, because the intention is to continue to gain altitude tomorrow".