Beyond the Known: Adventure on the unexplored peaks of Zanskar

By Rosa Fernández and Isabel Argüelles

We embarked on this adventure to relive the authentic pioneer experience: to feel the mystery, the risk and the thrill of exploring the unknown. Today, open routes and pre-planned obstacles have robbed many adventures of their true spirit. We wanted to face the unexpected and discover a new world, and we encountered every imaginable difficulty along the way.

First, we found an unexplored area and an unnamed, unclimbed peak. We contacted local agencies and discovered a world of possibilities. We decided on a 5,830-metre peak in northern India, on the edge of Zanskar, in Zanskar, Himachal Pradesh region. A mountain located in a remote valley, accessible from the new road leading to Zanskar.

The team consisted of Rosa, Isabel, the owner of the agency, assistant guides, cook and porters. No one knew the area and we could not find specific maps to help us to better trace the route, apart from what we could see in Google Earth. We stocked up to spend 7 or 8 days in the mountains. It took us months to close the project due to the lack of information and maps of such a remote place, which is now more accessible thanks to a road that is often closed due to rock avalanches.

When we arrived, it was very striking that we were two women alone on such an adventure. We started in a mysterious valley, with no paths and terrain full of very difficult rock avalanches. On the first day, as it was impossible to cross one of the rivers that blocked our way, we had to spend the night earlier than planned and try to cross it very early in the morning. The rivers were one of our biggest drawbacks. Very early in the morning, less water comes down, but it is completely frozen. From midday onwards, the water rises so high that it is impossible to cross. This, coupled with the lack of a road, made everything very hard, especially for the porters, who were exhausted.

So, on the third day we decided that we were not going to reach the chosen peak due to the extent of the terrain, its difficulty and the problem with the rivers that slowed us down. Talking to the guide, we decided to climb another peak closer to us. From below, it seemed accessible and without great technical difficulties.

On the ascent, we struggled to find a location with water for the base camp and the high camp. Once located, we decided to leave at dawn for the summit. We didn't want to leave at night because we didn't know what we would find.

We set off with all the safety equipment: ropes, snow stakes and a coil of rope in case we had to equip any area. We climbed up slopes of 40-45º until we reached an edge of mixed terrain with very broken rock, not difficult terrain, but very exposed and delicate. We spent the whole of this area roped and belaying.

Once the ridge was finished, we had to descend a little to catch the snow shovel that leads to the summit. Rosa went ahead to open the track with one of the boys. The snow was transformed by the sun around 8am and some sections became dangerous. At times you could walk well, at times you were constantly sinking. The slope of about 45º was fairly uniform. The spot showed us 5,815 metres. We were petrified at the highest point when we saw that we had 15 metres of overhead ledge left, which we couldn't face.

We struggled to turn around, but saw no option without risking our lives. It looked like an easy summit, but it was not and it had its dangers. There was still the descent, with slopes of 50 degrees and rock falls. It was a great adventure to enter the unknown.

We descended through a different area, believing that it would be an easier route, but we found ourselves with steep slopes where we had to secure ourselves in some sections and be very careful with the falling rocks of the ridge. At the end of the most complicated area, we stopped at a lake where we were able to hydrate ourselves to continue.

When we got a few metres away we were very surprised because we saw that we had the summit. It was hard after so much effort, but thinking coldly we decided that it was more important to return and that we had risked enough. Our intention is to continue in this line: to look for mountains that are not overcrowded and to continue transmitting the values of the mountain and of exploration.

Expedition information: The expedition was led by mountaineers Rosa Fernández and Isabel Argüelles, accompanied by a support team of 18 members, including indispensable porters. The mountain presented enormous challenges due to its remote geographical location, mixed terrain and lack of detailed information about the peak and the region, which made our journey full of surprises and setbacks.