Montserrat: hiking, spirituality, nature and more

ByRafa López Martín

The rocky mass of Montserrat is visible from many points in Catalonia. This massif, which forms part of the Catalan pre-coastal mountain range, is made up of rocky spires that popular knowledge has given curious names to, peaks or vantage points with incredible views, some with interesting access through eroded channels, impossible slopes and places that are a haven of peace just a stone's throw from the city of Barcelona.

Geology and nature

In the distant past, the site was occupied by a large delta, where pebbles settled, which later agglomerated into a sandy matrix and calcareous cement, giving rise to the geological base material, the conglomerate. After some time, movements of the earth's crust raised a large mass of conglomerate, which would become the base of the mountain. Here, with picks and shovels, the geological agents eroded and weathered the rock, sculpting the characteristic shapes, which were later christened Montserrat ("serrated mountain").

In this view taken from Montgròs, we can see the conglomerate in the foreground and the "Agulles" in the background, with their characteristic "serrated" shape.

Long before prehistoric humans settled in the caves or natural shelters, vegetation colonised this mountain. The stone and white pines in the lower parts and the holm oaks with viburnums, boxwoods, oaks and strawberry trees in the middle part. But if there is a relict vegetation, it is the one that populates the channels and torrents of the massif. Yews, maples, lime trees, holly trees... grow in isolation in these unique ecosystems. It is worth mentioning some small endemic flowering plants that grow on rocky terrain.

Holly can be found on some inland paths and streams. For example, this specimen photographed at the access to the Font de la Llum path.

The geological material limits the presence of water in the massif. There are very few water points that significantly limit the life of amphibians, the midwife toad and the salamander being the most frequent. Reptiles are more suited to these dry environments, with the common lizard and the snub-nosed viper predominating. On the other hand, the rocky environment of Montserrat favours the nesting of species of birds of prey such as the peregrine falcon, Bonelli's eagle or owls such as the great duke or tawny owl. In the spring season, access to certain areas is restricted, especially climbing areas, to protect their breeding period. Squirrels inhabit the lower part of the massif, where it is common to see pine cones eaten by them. Wild boars and mountain goats are frequent in the less frequented areas. The latter are easy to spot, the males are easily identifiable by their antlers and are usually alone and the females with some of their young in small groups.

Between 1995 and 1999, 26 specimens were released from the Ports de Tortosa. Besseit (Castellón/Tarragona/Teruel). Currently, a stabilised population of around 250 specimens is estimated.

Montserrat, the mountain holy

The relationship between humans and the mountains dates back to prehistoric times, but undoubtedly the discovery by shepherds of the carving of the black virgin, known as the Moreneta marks the religious and spiritual history of the so-called sacred mountain. The discovery dates back to the year 880, when the bishop of Manresa wanted to move her to this location, but she was too heavy. This was interpreted as an omen and a wish of the Virgin to remain in Montserrat. She was moved to the hermitage of Santa Maria, the forerunner of the present monastery, which dates from 1025. At first it depended on the Abbot of Ripoll and gradually became a sanctuary. Between the 12th and 13th centuries, the Romanesque chapel was built and the carving of the Virgin we see today dates from this period. In the 15th century, the Gothic cloister was built and the monastery of Ripoll became independent. It was sacked during the French invasion in 1812 and punished in 1835 with the disentailment of Mendizábal. In 1940 it was visited by the Nazi hierarch Himmler, believed to be looking for clues to the Holy Grail. On the same site there is a museum and the Escolania, famous for its children's choir.

In the monastery grounds, we can see the Abat Cisneros hotel on the left, the Abat Marcet cells in the middle and the monastery itself on the right.

The spiritual tradition is not only centred on the monastery grounds, but also expands to other spaces, the chapels. Some are of medieval origin, most were destroyed during the French invasion of 1812 and rebuilt later.

  • Sant MiquelCited in 1211. Situated a few metres above the Creu de Sant Miquel
  • Sant JaumeLocated on the wall of the Gorra Frígia and built around a natural cave. Difficult to access.
  • Santa CaterinaBuilt in the 17th century. Situated below the hermitage of Sant Joan in a stone bauma. Difficult to access. Climbers' hut free to use.
  • Sant Joan: Located on the track above the Pla de les Tarátules. 19TH CENTURY.
  • Former hermitage of Sant Joan Baptista/Sant OnofreBoth have continuity and make use of a natural rock. In the first part there was a restaurant. Both date from the 15th century.
  • Saint Magdalene15TH CENTURY. Located on the road to Miranda de Santa Magdalena, in ruins.
  • Sant MartíLocated on the south face of the Gorro Frígi. Under a "bauma". Difficult to access, it is currently used as a climbers' hut.
  • Sant JeroniLocated on the road to Sant Jeroni.
  • Sant Antoni: Located under the "paret dels diables", very close to the "Cavall Bernat". Restored in the 15th century, nowadays it is a climbers' hut free to use.
  • Sant SalvadorDocumented since the beginning of the 13th century. Under the rock of the same name, it is also used as a shelter free to use.
  • Santíssima TrinitatWe find remains of the old hermitage and the new one. The most recent one is a construction that functions as a shelter free to use. The old one, rebuilt in the 15th century, was known as the "palace of the hermitages" because of its magnificence.
  • Sant DimesAbove the monastery, connected by private stairs and not accessible. It is currently used as a meteorological data collection facility.
Sant Dimes is located on top of the monastery and is completely camouflaged by the rock.
  • Santa Creu y St. Helena18th century, located above the monastery. Functional and for private use by the monastic community.
  • Sant BenetFrom the 16th century. Located on top of the monastery, it functions as a shelter free to use..
  • Santa Anna15th century, currently under reconstruction.
  • Santa Cova: On the cobbled path leading down from the monastery. According to legend, this is where the Moreneta was found.

Practical information

When to go to Montserrat?

The best times to visit Montserrat are spring and autumn. Temperatures at these times of the year are mild, although it tends to cool down early and late in the day. This is the best time to see the plants in bloom and the fauna active. However, you should avoid rainy days, which can make it difficult to walk on rocky paths. If you want to go climbing, there are some areas that are off-limits during the spring nesting season. In winter some days it freezes and temperatures are less comfortable. Summer is the least advisable time to visit the mountain, as the greater influx of tourists and the high temperatures make it difficult to climb the mountain. Let's not forget the lack of water points and the high risk of fires in summer, which sometimes limits access to certain areas.

How to get there?

Access is via different points on the mountain:

1- Montserrat Monastery. It is the nerve centre where all the tourist services are concentrated: restaurants, accommodation, bookshop, souvenirs, medical service, police... You can get there in different ways:

  •  By car by road from Monistrol (9 kms) or from El Bruc (14kms). In total, 60 kms from Barcelona. The parkingThe campsite, which runs parallel to the BP - 1121 access road to the monastery, fills up very easily on public holidays. Price: 6,50€/day.

  • In the "aeri"This "aeri" is an aerial cabin or basket that takes five minutes and costs €8.6 one way and €13 return (adult). There are two ways to get there, by car or by FGC, and get off at the "Aeri de Montserrat" stop. More information: web aeri
The "aeri" or cable car allows us to make the ascent more quickly, but only for people without vertigo.
  • In the Zip: This train takes 15 minutes. Price: €8.1 one way and €13.50 return (adult). The rack railway stop can be reached by the FGC train, stop Monistrol de Montserrat or by car, leaving it at the parking free of charge. More information: web zip y FGC website

Other funiculars leave from the monastery itself:

  • Sant Joan FunicularIt takes about 6 minutes to cross the 248 m difference in height between the monastery and the Pla de les Taràntules. Adult price: 9,75 € one way and 15 € return. More information: funicular web
  • Santa Cova Funicular: It allows us to get close to the area around the Santa Cova, where the monumental rosary begins. It has a gradient of 118 m and takes 3 minutes. Adult price: €3.90 one way and €6 return. Possibility of combining tickets with the Sant Joan funicular. More information: funicular web

2- Collbató. The town can be reached by car or bus (Barcelona- Igualada line, pel Bruc). From Barcelona, the adult ticket costs €5.75 (one way).

3- El Bruc. Location can be reached by car or by bus (Barcelona- Igualada line, pel Bruc). From Barcelona, an adult ticket costs €7.35 (one way).

4- Monistrol. The town can be reached by car or FGC. From Barcelona, the adult ticket costs €5.75 (one way).

5- Parking areas

  • Coll de Can MaçanaLocated on the BP-1101 road. Km 2.6 (El Bruc). It is used as an information centre. Equipped with tables and a toilet. Free on weekdays, on weekends and public holidays it costs €6.
  • Monastery of Santa CeciliaLocated on the BP-1101 road. Km 5,4 (Marganell). Next to the monastery of Santa Cecilia, which functions as an art gallery, there is a free car park.
  • Salnitre CavesLocated in the municipality of Collbató. They have a parking area and another one next to the picnic area of La Salut.
  • La Vinya Nova: Restaurant (El Bruc) with a parking space on the ground.

Where to sleep?

1- Montserrat Monastery

  • Hotel Abat Cisneros: https://www.montserratvisita.com/es/organiza-la-visita/donde-dormir/hostal-abat-cisneros
  • Abat Oliba Hostel: https://www.montserratvisita.com/es/organiza-la-visita/donde-dormir/albergue-abat-oliba
  • Cells (flats) Abat Marcet: https://www.montserratvisita.com/es/organiza-la-visita/donde-dormir/celles-abat-marcet
  • Camping areaLocated on the cobbled road to Sant Miquel. For tents only. With toilets. Telephone: 938777777

2- Collbató

3- El Bruc

4- Monistrol

5- Agulles Vicenç Barbé Refuge: Located in the area of "les Agulles. Shelter with guard. Food and drink service. More information: phone: 628787390 and web

6- Hermitages. These constructions serve as shelters for hikers and climbers.

  • Santa Caterina
  • Sant Antoni
  • Sant Martí
  • Sant Salvador
  • Santíssima Trinitat
  • Sant Benet

7- Free camping. Prohibited. However, we can spend the night outdoors, or in the open air. bivouac. It is only allowed during excursions and trips that make it necessary, in small groups and at night, from sunset to sunrise.

Where to eat?

  • MonasteryOn the monastery grounds, you can choose to eat at the Hotel Abat Cisneros or at the Monterrat. If you want something more informal, you have the buffet, the Cafeteria or the bar in the Plaça.
  • Collbató/El Bruc/Monistrol: A wide variety of restaurants and bars.