📰 The most important mountaineering and mountain news of the last week
In the Weekly Bulletin we include a section in which we select the weekly news and different news. Subscribe to the newsletter and receive it every week. 🙂
Wednesday, 18 September 2024
- Five Spanish expeditions stand out on the list for the Piolets d'Or 2024 (Desnivel)with notable ascents of Kharut II, Amaiur Peak, Gulba, Ranrapalca, and Monte San Valentín. Among the climbers were names such as Koldo Zubimendi, the Pou brothers, and Oriol Baró. These activities have been recognised as some of the best of the year, while Mikel Zabalza will be part of the jury. This year's edition will also pay tribute to five mountaineers awarded in previous editions who have passed away in 2023.
- Pascal Tournaire, a veteran French mountaineer, has harshly criticised the documentary. Kaizen by Inoxtag (Sports World) (French Youtuber, who until now had only seen the mountain from his bedroom window) about his ascent of Everest. His documentary "KAIZEN: 1 year to climb Everest"!on Youtube, has broken records on the platform. Tournaire questions the merit of the feat and calls the documentary "egocentric," pointing out that climbing with oxygen, as Inoxtag did, does not have the same difficulty. He also warns against the trend of commercial expeditions to Everest, which he believes the youtuber is also a part of, comparing this experience to doing the Tour de France on an electric bicycle.
- And speaking of oxygen in the ascents of eight-thousanders, China has reopened access to the north faces of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, but has imposed new restrictions. (Desnivel). Climbers must demonstrate previous experience in mountains over 7,000 metres and using supplemental oxygen above that altitude. These rules make oxygen-free projects impossible....
Wednesday, 11 September 2024
- Dutch athlete and adventurer Geert van Nispen started his second attempt at the Fastest Known Time (FKT) on the GR11 on Monday 9 September.the iconic Pyrenean trail that connects the Atlantic with the Mediterranean. After its first unsuccessful attempt in June due to snow accumulation on the colsGeert returned to the Pyrenees this September, determined to complete 840 kilometres and 44,000 metres of vertical gain in less than 15 days, all with the aim of raising funds for Parkinson's research.
- Ainhize Belar has set a new milestone in Spanish women's climbing by completing the 9a+ route "Iñi Ameriketan" in Baltzola. (Desnivel)She is the first woman to achieve it. After months of effort and preparation, the 18-year-old from Bizkaia follows in the footsteps of legends such as Josune Bereziartu. This achievement consolidates Belar at the top of women's rock climbing, standing out as one of the most promising climbers of her generation.
"I knew that this project would not only be hard for me because of its difficulty, but also because finding a dry and somewhat conditioned track would be very difficult.Ainhize Belar
- Filip Babicz climbs and descends the Matterhorn in just 7 hours and 43 minutes. (Barrabes). Without taking shortcuts, Babicz climbed the Furggen (1h 38m), descended the Hörnli (40m), ascended the Zmutt (2h 18m), and finally descended the Lion (37m). All this without external support and respecting the pyramidal structure of the mountain, achieving record times in several sections of the route. An incredible feat for the Italian-Polish climber.
- The debate on the future of dams in the Pyrenees opens after the end of the hydroelectric concession of the Sant Maurici lake in the Aigüestortes National Park. (elPeriodico). Although some dams could be decommissioned, others still have an active role. Concessions expiring in 2028 and 2029 are prompting reflection on renaturation projects, but the discussion involves authorities as well as electricity companies and municipalities, who will have to find balanced solutions.
Wednesday, 04 September 2024
- 🔥Alpine Connections: Kilian Jornet climbs 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps in 19 days. Nineteen days after starting on the Piz Bernina, Kilian Jornet's dream of climbing all 82 peaks over 4,000 metres in the Alps, using only human strength to link them, came true on the Dôme and Barre des Écrins, the most westerly of them all.
- Ekaitz Maiz, Josu Linaza, and brothers Markel and Oier de la Fuente open the first route to the virgin Mun Brakk II needle (5,430 m) in Karakorum. (Desnivel). After several days of climbing and a failed attempt due to a problem with the equipment, Ekaitz and Markel reached the summit after a route of 1,140 metres with difficulties of M4, 7b. They named their route "Izar gorri, mamuon betiko argi" and highlight the climbing potential on the Sosbun glacier and its nearby valleys.
"After days of great intensity, we completed the route. There was no lack of moments of doubt. The snow sections, which were supposed to be 'laid', were completely vertical and wet the rock underneath. That's when the biggest doubts arose as to whether we would complete the route".-Ekaitz Maiz
- Vincent Bouillard surprised by winning the UTMB 2024 after an impeccable management of the race, completing the course in less than 20 hours. In the women's category, Katie Schide dominated from start to finish. (Sport Outdoor)He took the victory and placed 13th in the general classification. The edition was marked by the abandonment of several favourites due to the harshness of the night and the weather conditions.
- And we close with this, which I'm sure will have reached you through some channel; A couple was denounced for bathing in protected areas of the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, including the 'Cola de Caballo' waterfall.(Diario Vasco)and for allowing their dogs to bathe unleashed, in violation of park rules. To make matters worse, it was a influencer and the images were posted on social media, which allowed them to be identified by the authorities. The incident is part of a series of similar offences committed in the park over the summer.
Wednesday, 28 August 2024
- Lucía Guichot and Nieves Gil become the first Spaniards to climb "Eternal Flame" in the Trango Towers (Desnivel)considered to be the way to big wall at the most beautiful altitude in the world. Her ascent, completed in seven days, is a milestone for Spanish women's climbing. In addition, a Polish team achieved the fourth free ascent of this demanding route. "It took us 7 days to climb the almost 1000m route. It is hard to climb at altitude and even harder to climb with the heavy backpack up to Snowledge at 6000m", Guichot.
- I share with you a very interesting thread from Ekain Jiménez in X: "In mountaineering (trekking and mountaineering, but also applicable to competitive mountaineering), there is a a number of rules of politeness that are being lost due to the (legitimate) proliferation of people who have never practised mountaineering and who believe that this is Jauja."
- Christian Bickel and Micha Rinn make the first complete traverse of the 9 towers of Lavaredo in the Dolomites, known as the "Skyline Traverse".(Barrabes). In 23 hours, they climbed 2,030 metres. A broken rope due to a rock fall did not stop them from connecting all the peaks from Forcella Col di Mezzo to Forcella Lavaredo. This achievement marks a milestone in the history of climbing these iconic towers.
- And we close the section with Kilian and his journey through the Alps. In his 12th stage, he has completed the crossing of the Grandes Jorasses.28 kilometres travelled and 4,200 metres of accumulated altitude gain, to add 8 new summits of more than 4,000 metres, bringing the total to 59 since the project began. Alpine Connections. You can follow the day-to-day running of the project HERE.
Wednesday, 21 August 2024
- Kilian Jornet has decided to put himself to the test once again, after his victory in the Sierra Zinal that we told you about last week. The new project is called Alpine Connections. After his impressive feat in the Pyrenees last year, where he chained together 177 summits over 3,000 metres in just eight days, Jornet now faces an even greater challenge: the Alps, a mountain range that has been his home for many years. Kilian Jornet began his adventure in Bernina on 13 August, in eastern Switzerland, and is still stringing together peaks and ridges. 🔥Follow the day by day of the challenge.
- Sergey Mironov and Mikhail Mironov were successfully rescued on Gasherbrum IV after being trapped by the collapse of a serac that killed their partner, Sergey Nilov.(Explorersweb). The climbers were assisted on their descent to Advanced Base Camp, with Mikhail walking on his own and Sergey receiving painkillers. A helicopter evacuation is planned, subject to weather conditions. Unfortunately, rescue efforts failed to locate Nilov's body due to low visibility and bad weather.
- Anna DeMonte became the fastest woman to ascend and descend Mont Blanc on skis. (Barrabes)completing the route from the church in Chamonix and back in 7 hours and 29 minutes. This record, set on 5 June, puts her ahead of Hillary Gerardi and Emelie Forsberg, who by contrast made the climb on foot. During the crossing, DeMonte suffered a 30-metre fall, but fortunately ended up uninjured. Now we have the video of the feat.
Wednesday, 14 August 2024
- Kilian Jornet wins his tenth victory at Sierre-Zinal 2024 (Mountain Running)setting a new record of 2:25:34.8. Despite suffering from cramps during the race and stiff competition, Jornet came from behind in the final kilometres to win and beat his own previous record. I'm sure you've seen pictures of the overtaking downhill in the closing stages of the race. Taking advantage of the media hype, Kilian has published on his blog, the training programme he has followed this 2024 and which has brought him such good results in Zegama and now in Sierre-Zinal, I leave you here the link to the original article and here to the translation they have made from Mountain Races.
- Ales Cesen and Tom Livingstone make the first ascent of the west ridge of Gasherbrum III (7,958 m) on a route they have named "The Gasherbrum III Route".Edge of Entropy". Pure alpinism, light and fast. The climb, which lasted seven days, was very technical, marked by high altitude bivouacs without a tent and a complicated descent.
"I have always dreamed of climbing a technical and difficult alpine route at high altitude (~8000m). What is the most difficult route that can be climbed at the highest altitude? How high can you go? Can you transfer the difficulties of places like the Alps, Alaska or the Canadian Rockies to the highest mountains in the world? @alescesen and I wanted to explore this.
Gasherbrum 3 (7958m) is apparently the 15th highest peak in the world. We attempted it in 2022 and returned for another attempt this summer. (...)
The route was one of the hardest I have ever climbed, the culmination of a decade, and even our third bivouac, seated and without a tent at 7800m, will be memorable." -Tom Livingstone
- In a couple of weeks the eighth edition of the Pyrenees Stage Run begins, from 1 to 7 September, covering 220 km with 15,000 m of positive height gain over seven stages crossing five emblematic natural parks in the Pyrenees.from Ribes de Freser to Salardú. This year, the race has 137 participants from 19 countries, with an outstanding female participation of 38%. Here is the video of the last edition.
- And we close this section with these images of the "bowling alley on the route to Mont Blancwhich have gone viral in recent days. "10AM. Remember to cross before 7AM / 8AM". (see reel). The "bolera" or "Corridor of Death" is the black spot by number of deaths, on the ascent route. I also leave you this interesting study of the Petzl Foundation: "Mont Blanc: how can we reduce accidents in the Goûter couloir?".
Wednesday, 07 August 2024
- Peter von Känel and Chrigel Maurer have completed the ascent of the 82 Alpine four-thousanders in 51 days. (Barrabes)using only mountaineering and paragliding, without mechanical assistance. They started and finished in their home village of Frutigen, carrying all their equipment for the entire journey. Thanks to a late snowfall in the Alps, the first part of the mountain adventure was on skis, which made life easier. "The first 30 peaks were more or less ski tours, but then it changed and the weather got really good."
- "Why are mountain rescues on the rise?"(Cope) The increase in the number of people in the mountains, together with more difficult conditions due to snow and ice this season, has increased rescues by 15% compared to last year. The Guardia Civil de Montaña insists on proper planning, the use of correct equipment and consulting the weather to avoid accidents. Example of recklessness that has gone viral these days was that of a mountaineer who descended the Aneto glacier without the appropriate equipment (crampons, helmet, etc.). In the following link to an article in the Heraldo you can find watch the video made by the guide Jordi Richart.
- And to close the section we would like to remind you that the competition of Sport Climbing at the Paris 2024 Games is taking place from 5 to 10 August, with combined (bouldering and difficulty) and speed competitions. So if you're not following it, you're still in time to catch the outcomes of the following disciplines. Here you can consult the different test schedules.
Wednesday, 31 July 2024
- French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines has achieved an impressive record by climbing K2 from base camp to the summit in just 10 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds, without using supplemental oxygen. (Barrabes). This time is less than half the previous record set by Benoit Chamoux in 1986, who took 23 hours. Védrines, who had already attempted the climb two years ago (on that occasion he collapsed on the descent after retiring), expressed the symbolic importance of this ascent and mentioned his intense emotions on reaching the summit.
"From 8,000 metres onwards, I slowed down because I was very worried about going through the same situation as two years ago. It was a very symbolic climb for me".-Benjamin Védrines
- Heads and tails on the same mountain... Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, known for their light style ascents in the Himalayas, have suffered a fall during an attempt to open the west face of K2, at an altitude of 7,000 metres. (Desnivel). A rescue helicopter has spotted their bodies, but due to the dangerous terrain, it has not yet been possible to reach them, and hopes of finding them alive have faded. This accident occurred while they were on one of the most remarkable expeditions of the season in the Karakorum.
- Andy Steindl has set a new record on the Spaghetti Tour. (Lacrux)the alpine route that spans 18 peaks over 4,000 metres on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Steindl completed the course in 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds, beating the previous record by more than 1.5 hours. Here you can see a video with images of the deed.
"Everything was going well, my fitness was on point and the conditions were perfect. My mind was 100% focused and I went into a real state of flow for the first few hours. By the end, I couldn't even believe how fast I had been. This speed record demanded everything from me, physically and mentally. I'm exhausted, but so happy, what an amazing day!"-Andy Steindl
Wednesday, 24 July 2024
- Thomas Huber, Jon Griffin, and Tad McCrea return to the Choktoi glacier to attempt to climb the north face of Latok I. (Barrabes)one of the toughest and still unexplored routes in mountaineering. With several failed attempts, including that of the historic 1978 expedition led by Jim Donini, who now, at the age of 81, will accompany the team to base camp. Here is a video of the previous trip they have made, which is not to be missed (they're having a great time, aren't they?).
- Brant Hysell set a record in May when he soloed and self belayed the 'Salathé Wall' route on El Capitan in 19 hours and 58 minutes, beating the previous time of 20 hours and 6 minutes. (Desnivel). Now they have released the video of the challenge. Despite this impressive time, Alex Honnold set a new record just two weeks later, with a time of 11 hours and 18 minutes.
- And to close the section we would like to highlight the Góriz Refuge publication on Facebook with the current state of the "spittoon" of Monte Perdido. "The most exposed part of the ascent can be negotiated on the right side without snow, but be careful, both before and after this section there are still some snowfields where we recommend that you carry ice axes and crampons.
Wednesday, 17 July 2024
- Brothers Iker and Eneko Pou, together with Micher Quito, have opened a new and hard 1,000m route on the southeast face of Nevado Copa (6,188m) called Puro Floro (M7, 95º, A2). (Desnivel). In alpine style over four days, extreme conditions and high altitude bivouacs. The climbers consider this route as "their best mountaineering route to date". Here you can see the video they have released of the climb.
- This weekend, the Benasque valley will be the epicentre of the Gran Trail Trangoworld Aneto-Posets 2024 (TrailRun)with more than 3,800 runners registered. Jordi Alis and Carrodilla Cabestre took part in the Vertical Kilometre, Aroa Sío and Silvia Trigueros in the Gran Trail Aneto-Posets, and Virginia Pérez Mesonero and Asier Laiburo in the Vuelta al Aneto. If you want to follow the live broadcasts, here you have more information.
- Overcrowding in the Pyrenees is causing waits of more than half an hour to cross, for example, the Mahoma pass and reach the summit of Aneto. (Segre). A shuttle bus transports dozens of tourists daily from Benasque to the Renclusa refuge in order to climb Aneto. On other emblematic peaks in the Pyrenees, tourists have also suffered long queues and sanctions for camping in prohibited areas.
- And we close the section with an impressive video. DJI has conducted tests in the bush Everest with dronescapturing a 43 minute flight from base camp to the summit via the normal Khumbu route and the South Col. (Barrabes). The intention is to use these drones for rapid dispatches in emergencies and to locate missing persons.
Wednesday, 10 July 2024
- Japanese climbers Yudai Suzuki, Keisuke Ohkura and Kazumasa Otsubo open a new route on the south of Quitaraju (6,036m), Cordillera Blanca, Peru.(Barrabés). The new road, christened Dream House (1,240m, M6, AI5, A2, R/X, VI)consists of more than 30 pitches, none of them easy. In Yudai's words "I may never be able to complete such a difficult and dangerous climb again in my life. I have an indescribable feeling of having done it all and being able to trace such a beautiful and adventurous big line in alpine style without any attempt".
- Val d'Aran (Catalonia) and Irati Reserve (Navarre), new biosphere reserves (RTVE). The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) has approved 11 new biosphere reserves, including the Val d'Aran (Catalonia) and the Irati Reserve (Navarre). Of the former, he has highlighted its exceptional position facing north, which gives it a great diversity of climatic and biological landscapes. From IratiThe European Commission, the second largest beech-fir forest in Europe, pointed out what a paradise it is for biodiversity and highlighted the work of the local community.
- And to close the section, as we are sure that more than one of you who read us every week is thinking about climbing the Pyrenean monarch this summer, you should know that yesterday, the 10th of October, in Benasque the talks on how to safely climb Aneto (3.404m) (Montaña Segura). Open and face-to-face sessions given by guides from the valley that will take place throughout the summer.
Wednesday, 03 July 2024
- David Göttler completes his attempt on the Rupal slope of Nanga Parbat in alpine style (Desnivel) after the withdrawal of Mike Arnold (we announced it last week) and joining the French Boris Langenstein and Tiphaine Duperier. Despite their efforts and adaptations, the weather conditions did not allow for a real attempt to the top. Göttler stresses that staying true to his climbing style is worth more to him than reaching a summit.
- In the documentary "212 Mountains," Xabier Zarranz reflects on his life dedicated to the mountains after retiring from elite competition and winning the Gran Trail Aneto-Posets and the Canfranc-Canfranc. (Barrabes). Through a journey through the Pyrenees, from Balaitus to La Pica, the short film explores the beauty of the mountains and the challenges of balancing work and family life with ultra races.
- And to close the section, we are happy to bring you the article written by Maite Pariente for the magazine Sportvicious (you can access in the next link, page 112)talking about the literary space we share every week here, the Relatos de Altura, and how the passions for the mountain become "intense, evocative and full of life" letters.
"Those of us who love and live the mountain know that the emotions and feelings that invade us when we climb its walls, dance along its crests, cross its glaciers, take leaps of faith to avoid falling into its crevasses, feel cold, hunger and pain, cannot be explained in words. The only thing we can do is let ourselves be filled by the immeasurable sensation of feeling alive.
But even so, how can we avoid the temptation to put into words what we experience in the mountains, knowing that "to write is to live life twice"?
-Maite Pariente
Wednesday, 26 June 2024
- David Goettler and Mike Arnold have been acclimatising for 7 weeks to attempt the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) in light alpine style without supplementary oxygen. It is Goettler's fourth attempt, with prior acclimatisation in the Khumbu, waiting for a window of good weather for the summit attempt. Arnold, after these weeks of preparation, has decided to abandon the expedition due to family and professional commitments, although Goettler remains at base camp, waiting for the right moment with a French team.
"This mountain demands everything and a 4-5 day window was needed for ascent and descent, alpine style, ski/fly and no O2."-Mike Arnold
- Full list of the 34 male and 34 female climbers going to Paris 2024 (Desnivel).Last weekend in Budapest, the last remaining places for the Climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympic Gamesin both the Boulder+Difficulty and Speed categories. These places are in addition to those previously awarded at the Climbing World Championships 2023 in Bern and at the continental qualifying tournaments. In total, 68 climbers from 23 countries will participate in the event, distributed between the Combined and Speed categories. You can watch videos of the competition in the following link.
- And to close the section, we are pleased to bring you this beautiful project: five friends from Zaragoza have launched "Refugios Libres Dignos", an initiative that since 2022 has been dedicated to refurbishing mountain refuges in the Pyrenees.(20minutos). They started out independently, paying for the repairs, and now have the collaboration of companies and volunteers. In addition to improving the conditions of the refuges, they promote their responsible and supportive use, turning each refuge into a more welcoming and safe space for all mountaineers. You can visit their Instagram channel.
Wednesday, 19 June 2024
- The wait is over. The sixth edition of the X-Pyr, one of the most important competitions in the world. hike & fly The world's most demanding, is about to begin. The 23 June 202445 teams from all over the world will gather in Hondarribia to start an epic journey that will take them through the majestic Pyrenees, finishing on the Mediterranean coast in El Port de la Selva. Trans-Pyrenees races come in many different styles 😉.
- The brothers Pou and Micher Quito have opened a new route, called Pisco Sour, on the Nevado Pisco. (Barrabes)5,780m, in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. "Pisco Sour" 85°/M6/640m. They completed the 640m route, on ice and mixed, in 20 hours without stopping, starting from the Peru hut (4,680m) and returning to the same hut. non-stop.
"After 20 hours, 12 lengths and a sea of seracs, which gave us more difficulty than we expected."-Brothers Pou
- Jack Kuenzle and Anna DeMonte have set new FKTs for the ascent and descent of Mont Blanc on skis from Chamonix. (Desnivel). Jack Kuenzle completed the route in 4h59', just short of Kilian Jornet's walking time (4h57'). Anna DeMonte achieved her record in 7h29', close to Hillary Gerardi's time (7h25') on foot. Both skiers were assisted by Colin Haley, who opened the way on the Grands Mulets route.
- And we say goodbye with this video that has just been released. Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre completed the first "Ultra Traverse of the Mer de Glace," a feat of 55 km and 10,000 m of climbing in nine days. (Barrabes) climbing all the peaks of Chamonix. Their route included 11 four-thousanders such as the Jorasses and the Droites. This extreme physical and mental effort prepared them for their expeditions in the Himalayas and Andes, proving that there are still adventures for those seeking new routes.
Wednesday, 12 June 2024
- Lately, the ski descents have been "trending. Ross Hewitt, Nico Borgeot and Gaspard Buro have realised the first ski descent of "Missing Link" from the summit of Mont Blanc on the Brenva slope (Barrabes). They link several lines in one of the wildest areas of the massif, fulfilling a dream of Hewitt's to connect all the snowfields of the wall.
"Grandiose on a scale impossible to convey in mere words. Giant snowfields, ice skyscrapers, swathes of golden granite and 4000 feet of chasm to the glacier. Like the Grand Canyon but bigger, or perhaps more like the Himalayan giants." -Ross Hewitt
- New route on the Nepalese slope of Cho Oyu(Desnivel). Gelje Sherpa and the young French-Scottish Alasdair McKenzie lead a team of Sherpas to open a new route on the south slope of Cho Oyu (8,188 m), along the south-southwest ridge. The route has been completed after several failed attempts and a long period of planning and execution. It is a remarkable ascent, given that it is the first in fifteen years on this slope of Cho Oyu. They did have supplementary oxygen.
- Who climbs the Aneto and by where? The surveys conducted by Montaña Segura in 2023 help us to answer these questions. "70% of the surveys opted for the northern route (Besurta or Renclusa). 49% went on the Ibón del Salterillo route. 9% made the ascent by a climbing route". 86% wore crampons, 76% added ice axes to their safety equipment. Most of them are frequent mountaineers and are federated.
Wednesday, 05 June 2024
- Scandals and investigations surround Netflix's mountaineering star Nirmal Purja. (Kris Annapurna, 20minutos). The mountaineering "star" and Netflix personality is facing serious allegations of sexual harassment by two female climbers, according to a recent article in The New York Times. In addition, Purja is under investigation in Nepal for allowing his clients to climb Everest without the necessary permits and for using a helicopter to reach Camp 2, in contravention of local rules. All this comes on top of reports of cut ropes on the Everest route - we told you about this last week - which other climbers have denied, claiming that the ropes were in place.
- Polish mountaineer Bartek Ziemski has made the first descent of Kangchenjunga on skis. (Desnivel)starting from the summit (8,586 m) and descending to the last snow point (5,600 m). His partner, Oswald Rodrigo Pereira, descended on foot alone, bivouacking at 7,600m due to fatigue and darkness. Both reached base camp six days after setting off.
- We continue with an interesting reading. Mountain walking 14 Orduak Toulouse, which is held every Olympic year, has lost classic values such as comradeship and solidarity, according to the organisers. "We would like them to do it like the pioneers of this long walk used to do. The first mountaineers did not intend to compete".(El Salto). Originally non-competitive, the walk now attracts participants who use it as training for tougher events, reflecting a shift towards a performance and consumption mentality rather than enjoyment of the mountains. The phenomenon reflects a wider trend of massification and sportsmanship in mountain activities.
- And we say goodbye with this video of Kilian Jornet that is dizzying to watch even from the other side of the screen. "Kilian Jornet has returned to Norway, where he lives, and has not been able to resist going out into the mountains again after achieving his 11th Zegama Aizkorri". (Oxygen). You can see the video here.
Wednesday, 29 May 2024
- I think this is the news of the week. Last weekend was the Zegama-Aizkorri. And of course, for this mythical mountain marathon all eyes were on Kilian Jornet, who has a great fondness for this race. He has17 years since a young Kilian won his first Zegama-Aizkorri, but he is still there. Now he has won his eleventh victory, just a minute and a half off his record. (Sport). Sylvia Nordskar is crowned in the women's category.leading the race from Sancti Spiritu and clocking a final time of 4:29:12. The race, broadcast in four languages, has registered a peak of almost 30,000 spectators in the streaming in English, and you can watch the intensity of the broadcast HERE.
- Alex Honnold soloed the 900-metre Salathé Wall in Yosemite in 11 hours and 18 minutes, almost half the time of the previous record. (Barrabes). Just how hot this record was among the American climbing community, Honnold has beaten the time of 19 hours and 58 minutes set by Brant Hysell only 12 days ago.
- Dutch adventurer Geert van Nispen is about to embark on the challenge of breaking the Fastest Known Time (FKT) on the GR11 route840 kilometres through the Pyrenees. It will start on the 1st of June. You can follow him in real time at the following link (here).
- And we say goodbye on Everest. Every season is more of a circus. On the one hand Nirmal Purja claimed on Instagram that the ropes on Everest were cut just before his ascent, but a Pioneer Expedition team confirmed that the ropes were in place. (Explorersweb). The Nepal Department of Tourism will investigate Purja's claims for possible misinformation. And on the other hand, we get images like the one I share with you below. I won't comment, but I think that now a new edition of the Guinness World Records will be moved to the roof of the world....
Wednesday, 22 May 2024
- Jim Morrison, Christina Lusti and Chantel Astorga have made the first ski descent of the Great Trango Tower (6,286 m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. (Desnivel). After a first failed attempt in 2023, the team reached the summit and made the historic descent down a line of snow and ice. Morrison noted the inspiration and emotional challenge of the project, especially after the loss of his partner, Hilaree Nelson.
"What seemed impossible because of its huge vertical walls became an objective thanks to a natural ribbon of snow and ice that descends from the summit".-Jim Morrison
- This week, Patagonia presents an inspirational documentary that explores the creation of "Running Up for Air (RUFA), a global trail running event advocating for clean air. Started by veteran trail runner Jared Campbell in 2012, RUFA encourages runners to join together, run routes and raise funds for environmental causes.
- Good controversy on Everest. Nirmal Purja and his company, Elite Exped, are under investigation for allegedly violating Everest rules.(Explorersweb). They are accused of allowing a team with a Lingtren permit to reach Everest Camp 3, and of Purja using a helicopter to fly from Kathmandu directly to Camp 2, which is prohibited. The Nepal Civil Aviation Authority is investigating these allegations.
Wednesday, 15 May 2024
- Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima take on the West Face of K2(Barrabés)Japanese mountaineers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima will attempt to climb the challenging west face of K2, known for its verticality and difficulty. This route has been climbed only once, by a Russian team in 2007, using heavy techniques.. True to form, Hiraide and Nakajima plan a light ascent without supplementary oxygen. We will be following them.
- Bartek Ziemski descends Makalu on skis (Desnivel). Bartek Ziemski and Oswald Rodrigo Pereira managed to ascend Makalu without supplemental oxygen, marking Ziemski's first descent on skis from the summit. Ziemski used fixed ropes and only "took off his skis on the French corridor and a rocky section below C1". Now, they are preparing to attempt the first ski descent of Kangchenjunga.. In the words of Oswaldo Rodrigo:
- And we close the section with something that we are undoubtedly seeing with our own eyes when we go to the mountains; Climate change is cracking the mountains(ElDiario). Global warming is causing an increase in rockfalls in the Swiss Alps due to melting permafrost, according to a recent study by the National Museum of Natural Sciences. This phenomenon, which could also affect other mountain regions, is making slopes more unstable and prone to collapse. We will see how it will be affecting the Pyrenees...
Wednesday, 8 May 2024
- Tom Livingstone and Gasper Pintar complete a great opening at Mt Dickey (Barrabes)The painting, Alaska, which Pintar considers the most arduous of his career. "Whenever Tom Livingstone's name comes up, you know it must have been serious. Sometimes he ends up in Piolet d'Or, sometimes close to it". For four days and nights, they faced extreme conditions, from intense cold to complications caused by the spring weather. "A subtle line through steep rock took us to the centre of the face, demanding ice and a bivouac in a cave. Then we zigzagged upwards as the snow fell (...) A bivouac on a fluffy snow ridge ended day 3," says Livingstone.
- In a few days the programme of the Pyrenees Hiking Festivals (FSP), which have been organised in the Catalan Pyrenees since 2016, will begin. (Turiski)between May and October in ten different counties. "The programme of activities for each festival is decentralised and the guided tours are distributed throughout the different places in the region or municipality hosting the event".
- And we close the section with this video shared by the Pou Brothers, showing the descent of the Latour Gap on skis.The site is emblematic of the Balaitus colossus (the site will come to mind for many of you). You can appreciate the "tension, the inclination ( 50⁰), the narrowness, and the power of the legs for each of the turns jumped with almost no inertia...".
Wednesday, 1 May 2024
- Let's start with this video that I shared these days Pablo RAL on his Youtube channel, in which he documents the opening of 'El comodín de la llamada' to Aneto together with Jonatan García and Santi Callejo. (In February we already echoed this in this space). "Two days after my first ascent of ANETO, Jonatan García invited me to join him and Santi Callejo in an attempt to open a route on the north face", Pablo comments. This is how it was born 'The Joker of the Call' a 205 metre route, grade reaching M7+ and 85º..
- Tim Howell, British adventurer and former navy man, is set to attempt the first ever wing jump from over 8,000 metres, choosing the 8,516-metre Lhotse. as a launching pad (Desnivel). His goal is to beat the current world record, set by Valeri Rozov on Cho Oyu at 7,700 metres. He will use supplementary oxygen support on the ascent, but not on the descent.
- And we close the section with this documentary brought to us by Mundo Baca on its channel: DOCUMENTARY CAVALLS DEL VENT 2024. "An emblematic route that runs along the two slopes of the Cadí and Moixeró mountain ranges, in the Catalan Pre-Pyrenees, linking the Park's eight refuges over a total distance of 85 km with an accumulated difference in altitude of 10,000 metres". Here you have some more information about route information.
Wednesday, 24 April 2024
- Cris and Viv, a pair of mountaineers, are embarking on a unique mission: to complete the Seven Summits by starting each ascent from sea level and returning to sea level. (Summits) "He is a Romanian mountaineer. She is British, his unconditional support. The goal: the Seven Summits. The difference is the method. Until now, have successfully climbed Aconcagua and Kilimanjaro in this way.. For each mountain, they meticulously plan their routes, crossing borders and challenging terrain to start and finish each climb on the coast. This approach not only significantly increases the distance and challenge of each climb, but also allows them to deeply explore the regions they traverse. (You can follow their mountaineering adventure on their YouTube channel).
- The Cholitas Escaladoras, a group of indigenous Bolivian climbers, aspire to climb Everest without sponsors. (Salt and Rock) by resorting to crowdfunding to finance their expedition. After conquering peaks in Bolivia and Aconcagua, these women seek to challenge the conventions of mountaineering and establish a link between the indigenous communities of Bolivia and Nepal. Their goal is not only to climb but also to draw attention to the environmental and social crises facing the world's mountain regions.
- "Into the (Un)known"new film by Kilian Jornet. In this new film Kilian not only covers all the main 3000-metre peaks of the Pyrenees in just eight daysThe project also documents the dramatic environmental changes and his deep connection to these mountain landscapes. In total, he travelled 485.65 kilometres and accumulated a difference in altitude of more than 43,000 metres, in more than 155 hours of physical activity (we chronicled the challenge back in the day).
Wednesday, 17 April 2024
- Despite being over 60, Christian Ravier still has a youthful passion for climbing.far from competitions and grades, focused on a genuine love of adventure and contact with the rock. In this interview with Desnivel, Ravier shares his continuous inspiration and his deep connection to climbing.He has followed this activity since his youth, influenced by his family and his Pyrenean environment. "I received passion as an inheritance".he says of Jean and Pierre Ravier.
- The "Waterfall Doctors" are the experienced Nepalese mountaineers who secure passage over the treacherous Khumbu Icefall before and during the climbing season. (Barrabes). They equip the route with ropes and ladders, braving landslides and avalanches daily to keep the route safe for hundreds of commercial expedition clients. Nawang Chimi Sherpa, one of these brave men, recently shared a video of his working day, offering an intimate insight into the risk and dedication his job entails.
- And to close I bring you the three-episode documentary series shared by The North Face. In it, filmmaker Andrea Cossu, follows Italian climber Jacopo Larcher on his journey through Europe, America and the UK to deepen "the knowledge of traditional climbing as an art form".The project will explore what "hard climbing" really means and whether, when it comes down to it, grades really matter. In this chapter he returns to continental Europe, where it all began for Jacopo. (You can include the translated subtitles in the YT player)
Wednesday, 10 April 2024
- Valeri Babanov, the 59-year-old Russian veteran and two-time Piolet d'Or mountaineer, is aiming for Everest without supplementary oxygen, seeking to become the oldest person to achieve it. (Desnivel). After climbing Makalu last year, Babanov is looking to summit Everest in a style that defines his impressive big-mountain career, away from big expeditions and highlighted by a light and fast approach.
- Roberto Delorenzi and Sara Alonso set new records in the Calamorro SkyRace (Sport)The race was part of the Merrell Skyrunner® World Series in Benalmádena, over 27.5 km and 2,270 metres of elevation gain. Delorenzi and Alonso led their respective categories. On the other hand, this race also marked the debut of the Esteban Olivero Trophy under-23, paying tribute to the young athlete who passed away.
- And we close with this story brought to us by Angela Benavides for Explorersweb: The Great Himal Race1,700km ultramarathon from Tibet to India. It's getting out of hand... From Hilsa in Nepal to Kangchenjunga Base Camp, covering 1,700km and 90,000m of elevation gain over 14 passes above 5,000m. This year, twenty-nine runners, both Nepali and foreign, take on the challenge from April 9 to May 31, while a shorter version will connect Annapurna Base Camp to Lukla, covering 850km.
Wednesday, 03 April 2024
- We open with the story of three friends, who cross the Central Pyrenees on their gravel bikes and skis in a self-sufficient way.The route takes you to the deepest and coldest Pyrenees, where you can see how "the borders between France and Spain become blurred and covered in a blanket of snow". An exciting and spectacular adventure that will show us the most impressive corners of the Pyrenees.
- French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines has completed an impressive route around the Serre-Chevalier valley, climbing 16 peaks and covering 110 km with a total elevation gain of 11,850 metres in two days. of intense skiing activity (Desnivel). This challenge served as training for his next project: a rapid ascent of K2 this summer.
- And we close with this story. The conversion of disused churches in Belgium into alternative spaces culminates in the transformation of a parish church in Brussels into a climbing wall. (Brand). This initiative, carried out by the Maniak climbing club, represents a creative solution to declining membership and high maintenance costs, providing a new meeting and activity venue for the local community and climbers. The project, which has revitalised an abandoned historic building, combines sport, socialisation and heritage preservation, demonstrating that the reuse of space can generate significant community and cultural benefits.
Wednesday, 27 March 2024
- The "A Pulmón" Project, led by the Spanish Association of Lung Cancer Patients (AEACaP), marks a milestone (Oxygen) by summiting five new peaks in 2024, including the iconic Cerredo Tower and Mount Ararat in Turkey, defying stigmas and demonstrating that life goes on beyond cancer. Objective: making lung cancer visible and breaking stigmatisationThe event, highlighting the healing power of sport and the overcoming of goals.
- Marek Holecek and Matej Bernat achieved a historic first ascent of the unexplored northwest face of Sura Peak in May 2023. (6,764m, Nepal) (Barrabes)overcoming enormous difficulties on the route "Simply Beautiful. After a risky four-day non-stop climbingThe Czech duo have shared their adventure through an exciting documentary, capturing the essence of their struggle and perseverance.
- If last week I told you about the Manifesto, which was promoted by a club, in favour of the names of the routes responding to the values of climbing, today, the writer and climber Gonzalo Pernas explains in a text his rejection of the proposal, defending the creative freedom and cultural autonomy of climbers. (Desnivel). He criticises the tendency towards interventionism, warning against the risk of imposing censorship and revisionism on a community that values tradition and authenticity. He argues that track names are part of a rich heritage that must remain free of external agendas, preserving the spirit and history of the sport..
- And we say goodbye with this story by the climber and filmmaker Noah Kane who has shared a video in which he climbs a tree that could be a 7c on rock. "A video about my trip from four years to climb and master my most difficult tree climb of all; The Porcupine Tree!"says Kane.
Wednesday, 20 March 2024
- Sean Villanueva completes historic trek in Torres del Paine (Desnivel). The Belgian climber has marked a milestone in the history of mountaineering by completing the Double M' traverse in Torres del PaineChilean Patagonia, climbing the four towers of the massif solo for 70 hours. This feat, which surpasses his own Moonwalk traverse of Fitz Roy in 2021, stands out as the most complete one yet.
- Reinhold Messner has received the second boot of his brother Günther, who disappeared on Nanga Parbat in 1970. (Barrabes)ending a long-running controversy about his death. Found 52 years later on the Diamir glacier, this delivery symbolises the definitive confirmation of Messner's version of his brother's tragic fate. The boot, which joins the first one found in 2005 next to Günther's body, dispels doubts and conspiracy theories, closing a painful chapter in the history of mountaineering and reaffirming the brothers' legacy in the mountains.
- Manifesto for the naming of routes to reflect climbing values (Desnivel). A Galician climbing club is starting a movement to ensure that the names of climbing routes reflect the core values of the sport and promote inclusion. The initiative aims to end the use of offensive names on routes by inviting outfitters to join a manifesto that establishes respectful guidelines for the naming of future routes.
- Eneko Pou celebrates his 50th birthday with a solo adventure (Oxygen). Six pitches, 180 metres, and six days of hard work. "Climbing solo has nothing to do with climbing in a team. The responsibility is much greater; you are alone up there and any mistakes you make have to be solved with your own means", he says.
Wednesday, 13 March 2024
- Can we use climbing to shape the world we want to see? "What The Hands Do, the film that tells the story of two Mexican climbers. "If we cooperate, support each other and take care of each other, climbing helps us re-imagine the possibilities of what we want the world to be," says Mariana.
- Marcin Tomaszewski and Pawel Haldas conquer Moose Tooth, Alaska, with an extraordinary winter opening, which they have named "Cold Wars". (Barrabes)10 days of Big Wall winter with extreme Alaskan conditions; 730 m A3, M5 + 250 m 60-70, for this mixed rock, ice and snow route that stands out for its beauty and technical difficulty.
- Mathieu Maynadier with the Louna brothers and Tristan Ladevant open "Le syndrome de l'oublie". (Desnivel)a new 400-metre route, with ice 5 and mixed M7 difficulties, in a little-frequented enclave of Envers des Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif, taking advantage of exceptional conditions this winter. "A truly incredible mixed climb, sustained and steep enough to reach the top".
- And we say goodbye with this documentary that arrives to us via Desnivel magazine. The documentary "Jadis. Looking Backward".acclaimed in several mountain film festivals and freeride, interweaves the story of an 18th century shepherd, a pioneer in the exploration of the Pyrenees, with the contemporary life of William Cochet.skier freeride and environmental activist. Enjoy the stunning winter landscapes of the Pyrenees. (Can be viewed with subtitles)
Wednesday, 06 March 2024
- A 2,600km trek from India to Nepal. On 5 January, Laurent Berthod completed his crossing of the Himalayas on foot, alone, from Rumtse in the Indian Ladakh to Everest base camp, accumulating more than 2600 km, 125,000 m elevation gain and 76 mountain passes in 96 days. You can see here a photo gallery of their adventures.
"Through deserts, glaciers, jungles, rivers and more than a hundred valleys, I was lucky enough to explore Himalayan provinces still untouched by tourism, which led me to map more than 100 km of shepherd trails on the Indo-Tibetan border, connecting the Spiti and Kinnaur valleys, plus many passes in India as well as in the far west of Nepal." -Laurent Berthod
- Nepal to implement mandatory use of locator chips for expeditioners on Everest this spring (Desnivel)The devices, which require no batteries and can be detected via radar, will cost $15 to rent, allowing for quick and accurate locations on foot and from helicopters. The devices, which do not require batteries and can be detected via radar, will cost $15 to rent, allowing quick and accurate locations both on foot and from helicopters. The move is in response to 18 fatalities in the 2023 season, including one unaccounted-for climber.
- Directed by Guillaume Broust, soon to be released Keep it Burning, the film about Edu Marin's free climb to Eternal Flame, in the Nameless Tower (Barrabes). Follow Edu Marín and his family on an unforgettable journey, conquering the iconic "Eternal Flame", a monumental 5.13 to 6,200m ascent of the Nameless Tower in the Himalayas Here is the teaser video.
- And we say goodbye with this tweet from Madrid emergency services, reminding us that going to the mountains is not the same as a walk in the urban park.
Wednesday, 28 February 2024
- BANFF Mountain Film Festival's Spanish tour kicks off. The prestigious mountain film festival is scheduling the screening of 8 renowned audiovisual projects at five national stops. First with three events in the Aragonese and Catalan Pyrenees, before travelling on to Zamora. Jaca opens the tour this weekend (1st and 2nd March) with the presence of Marta Jimenez, protagonist of an unprecedented BASE jump in the Torreón de los Galayos.
- Santi Padrós, temporarily swapping the Dolomites for Mont Blanc, has opened two new winter goulottes: 'Hypnotic lain' and 'Folie perseverante', together with Oliver Gajewski and Valérie Dupont. (Desnivel) respectively, in the Envers des Aiguilles area. These ascents, notable for their technical difficulty, reflect the exceptional ice conditions this year and add two significant routes to the Padrós alpine repertoire.
- Slovakian Juraj Koren has made an interesting solo winter ascent of the north face of the Petit Dru. (Barrabes)using paragliding for the approach and descent, although he failed to reach the summit. This attempt, documented on video, is notable for, in keeping with Koren's style, fusing climbing and flying in big mountains.
- And to close I leave you with this documentary. "The GAPE is a perfect dihedral in the Sierra de Gredos. A team of self-protection climbing fanatics set out to free climb it". and have a good time at the same time, but things in the mountains are never easy. With a sense of humour, motivation and courage, they embark on this adventure.
Wednesday, 21 February 2024
- Jonatan García has opened three new routes on the north face of the Aneto in just twelve days, making a total of eight openings on this mountain in three months.(Desnivel). The recent routes, located to the right of the historic Jean Arlaud corridor, offer routes of high difficulty and reflect García's passion and commitment to leave "a legacy" on this emblematic Pyrenean wall. "'The Joker Call', 'Total Impact' and 'The Giant's Diamond' are the first tracks on the right hand side of the Jean Arlaud corridor.". With plans to continue to explore and open up new lines.
- Asier Jaka and Mikel Ezkurdia have opened "Asiertxo", a new winter route on the west face of the Taillón. (Desnivel)with 330m of route and maximum difficulties of M4+ in mixed and 4 in ice, dedicated to the memory of his friend Asier Casanellas. The decision to explore this new line came after "finding the west face of the Taillon very busy" and after observing the ice formation this year.
- 5 faces of Les Agneux, Écrins, in the day on skis for Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean. "5 ascents and 5 tough descents on skis, 6,000m of vertical drop, in only 15 hours".(Barrabes).
"One of the highlights of this adventure was arriving at Agneau Noir just before dawn, having left Le Monêtier-les-Bains a few hours earlier." -Védrines
- And we close the section with this news item: Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, and Villanueva achieve the first free ascent of the Riders of the Storm in Torres del Paine after 18 days working on the wall (Barrabes) . The famous route, opened in 1991, challenges with 1,300m of climbing that they have overcome by joining forces, motivation and overcoming adverse weather conditions. This achievement culminates a process of evolution and dedication that began 18 years ago.
Wednesday, 14 February 2024
- "Ecstasy of Gold" to the winter north of Gran Astazu (TD+ M5 90° 560m), led by Frenchmen Corentin Roux and Camille Morin.
"About ten days ago, the magnetic and mysterious north face of the Great Astazou (3071) was imposing itself before our eyes as if it were a fact... (...) A long day with its share of uncertainties, but everything is going well. Doubts dissipate, the climb absorbs us, the summit awaits us with open arms".-Corentin Roux
- Benjamin Vedrines plans a fast one-day oxygen-free ascent of K2, followed by a paragliding descent (Explorersweb). After the Drus-Droites-Jorasses Alpine Trilogy in three days, which we reported on last week and which revolutionised the alpine panorama, Vedrines is preparing for this challenge that will take him to the high altitudes in July. In 2022 he had to abandon at 8,400m due to severe hypoxia due to fatigue. With intensive physical and mental preparation, he is looking to beat his personal best and explore new limits in mountaineering.
- The proposed amendment to the Wilderness Act in the United States threatens to outlaw fixed anchors in climbing.(Desnivel)affecting iconic areas such as Yosemite. The proposed changes redefine anchors as "installations", requiring specific approval for their installation, reversing the current criteria of permissibility unless expressly prohibited. The climbing community, including organisations and renowned climbers such as Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian and others, are mobilising in defence of climbing rights as the proposal moves through the legislative process.
- And we close the section with information for those of you who are thinking about training for upcoming challenges. "Kilian Jornet reveals the reasons why cross-training is one of his key fitness principles". (Oxygen)
Wednesday, 07 February 2024
- Drus-Droites-Jorasses trilogy in three days: Leo Billon and Benjamin Védrines have achieved an exceptional alpine feat. (Desnivel)free climbing three north faces of Mont Blanc on three consecutive days during the winter. They completed the 'Voie des guides' on the Drus (800m, ED+, M8+), the 'Them-Vimal' (1,000m, M7/M8) on the Droites and 'No siesta' (1,100m, ED+, WI6, M8 X R) on the Grandes Jorasses, a highly difficult climb in an adventure described as "from another planet", without intermediate rest days, notable not only for its technical level but also for the endurance and determination of the French duo.
- The Pyrenees Mountain Film Festival will award its honorary prize to the Aragonese climber Ángel López, popularly known as "el Cintero". A recognition that highlights his career linked to the mountains and nature, being one of the pioneering mountaineers in Aragon and a member of the so-called "prodigious decade". Among his achievements throughout this decade are openings in places such as the Mallos de Riglos, the Peña del Moro in Mezalocha, Ricla or the Foz de Salinas.
- A group of speleologists has managed, after 28 years studying the cave system of Alto del Tejuelo, in Cantabria, to connect the largest cave system in Spain. (Cadena Ser)with 206 kilometres of tunnels. As curiosities, inside there is a room so big that it could fit inside the Santiago Bernabeu and a strange formation that runs through one of the corridors of the caves, nicknamed "Moonmilk", which covers the walls of a "soft" mineral that absorbs almost all sound, creating a "soundproof" passage.
- "The 'Snow Society': the mountaineering feat of a group that didn't even know snow". (20minutos) Based on the 1972 Andes tragedy and directed by J.A. Bayona, it highlights the feat of survival and mountaineering of the two young men, Nando Parrado and Roberto Canessa, who after 72 days of isolation, managed to descend the mountain and seek help, highlighting their mountaineering courage in an extreme situation with no previous experience in snow. Kris Annapurna he asks in his article: "Was it really mountaineering that these two young people did? Why didn't they go down earlier? What means did they have? How did they organise themselves? What route did they follow? How did they orientate themselves? What really saved them?"
Wednesday, 31 January 2024
- A few days ago we learned that Denis Urubko abandoned his "winter attempt on Gasherbrum I with frostbite after falling into a crevasse" at 5500 metres. He is already in hospital in Skardu receiving medical treatment for frostbite on his hands. (Desnivel). He made a swift return march, being assisted by military posts along the way and thanks to the cooperation of friends and authorities, despite a problem with his accident insurance. He is now in hospital receiving the necessary care for his injuries.
- After five decades of doing business on its own terms, Patagonia publishes "The Future of the Responsible Company"., written by the company's director of philosophy, Vincent Stanleyand its founder, Yvon Chouinard. An approach to corporate responsibility at a time of growing cultural divides and a worsening climate and ecological crisis. A benchmark for another way of doing things, and one that should certainly be inspirational.
- Today 31 January sees the premiere in Prime Video 'C.A.E.M.: The forge of rescue' showing how the mountain specialists of the Guardia Civil of Aragon are trained. (El Diario Vasco). "The training centre of this Guardia Civil mountain unit is in Jaca and the documentary was filmed last winter on location in the Pyrenees and Pre-Pyrenees".
- "Abriendo camino vol.2" is a documentary that narrates the expedition of the FEDME Women's Mountaineering Team to Greenland last summer.where they opened eight new routes. The film, directed by Juan Miguel Ponce, offers an intimate insight into the challenges and triumphs of the women's team in the mountains of Greenland's east coast. The documentary, which follows on from Volume 1 which explored Wadi Rumwill begin its cycle at international festivals in 2024.
Wednesday, 24 January 2024
- We start with the Aconcagua (6,962 m), by the "Aconcagua in feminine". more specifically. Four mountaineers from the Adebán Mountaineering Club managed to reach the summit of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in America, after an intense and exciting ascent. (20minutos). The team, made up of 10 women aged between 50 and 75, faced the challenges of the mountain. In the end, four of them reached the summit, proving that dreams are ageless and overcoming a challenge that captured the attention of many followers on social networks.
- And without moving from Aconcagua. Belén Rodríguez Doñate, a Spanish runner and sports nutritionist, aims to break the women's record for the solo ascent and descent of Aconcagua. (Campobase)a feat that currently has a time of 20 hours and 17 minutes. Facing a cold and windy season, he is already acclimatising and preparing for his ascent by transporting equipment to high altitude camps.
- Denis Urubko already working on Gasherbrum I (Desnivel). He is already at the BC and is working on opening the line across the dangerous glacier on the way to C1. "If he makes the summit, he would be the third person in history to climb a winter eight-thousander solo, after Fernando Garrido (Cho Oyu, 1987) and Krzysztof Wielicki (Lhotse, 1988)".
- The mountain film festival European Outdoor Film Touropens its national tour this Sunday from the Canary Islands and does so with an exceptional guest. This edition of the festival will feature the Iranian professional climber, Nasim Eshqia pioneering career climber in her country and defying the regime as a ambassador of freedom, equality and human rights.
Wednesday, 17 January 2024
- Alex Txikon concludes his winter expedition to Annapurna. After more than a month and a half since the start of the adventure, the climbing team has decided not to climb again due to the difficult conditions on Annapurna. In short, it has been an expedition that has consisted of three rotations at altitude in which, for different reasons, once at C3 (6,400m) they have had to turn back. "We have already taken too many risks. It's one thing for me to get caught, but not for my companions", confesses Alex Txikon.
"I think it would be foolhardy to stay, given the exceptionally good, but at the same time compromising and risky conditions on Annapurna". -Alex Txikon
- The Pyrenees Mountain Film Festival presents the 21 short films in competition in its official section. The event, which will be held this year 2024 between 19 and 24 February in Huesca, will feature productions from 12 countries in Europe, America and Africa; among the proposals are mountaineering, climbing, base jumping, free diving, mountain biking, skiing and kayaking.
- What do we do with the helibike? (el Periódico). I mean cycling down a mountain and arriving there by helicopter. It is the hot topic with great current controversy in Aragon, particularly in Punta Suelza, Bielsa... This practice, socially rejected in several European countries, has raised environmental concerns due to its impact on protected species and soil erosion. Regional politics has also been affected, with debates in the Cortes de Aragón and the proceedings against a nature protection agent by the Government of Aragón.
- "Thrawn', a doggedly Scottish film promoting the importance of snowsports in the Cairngorms and the value of a resilient community. "Thrawn is the ability to make the most of what we have. In the Highlands we're wired with this energy," says Lesley McKenna, a local resident and three-time Olympian snowboarder, who grew up with this innate tenacity.
Wednesday, 10 January 2024
- Jonatan García and Santi Callejo open "Caprichos del Viento" (M7, 85º, 180m) on Aneto (Barrabes)Garcia's fourth new route on the mountain this autumn-winter. The route is located on the little visited NE wall of Barrancs, near the left boundary and ends 50 metres from the summit. Initially rockier due to windy conditions, the recent squall has significantly altered the terrain. "In other winter conditions, it is quite likely that the fissures and rock slabs would be covered with ice, and everything would change."
- French cyclist and adventurer Joffrey Maluski has completed a 1,436 km ride through Lapland during the winter. (explorersweb)He travelled through Norway, Sweden and Finland in 25 days, averaging 57 km per day. Polar darkness, average temperatures of -20°C, on his journey he carried all his equipment, including photographic material and a drone. Despite being mostly self-sufficient, he occasionally stopped in towns to recharge batteries and enjoy non-dried food, concluding his adventure with the sight of the Northern Lights.
- Alex Txikon advances and reaches the C2 of Annapurna (5,600m approx) taking advantage of the window of good weather.In just two and a half hours, they covered the stretch between C1 and C2, in good weather and plenty of sunshine. What does Alex carry in his backpack for a high altitude rotation? In this video he tells us about it:
- June Villaroel and Arturo de Barnola complete the challenge of climbing 24 emblematic crags of La Pedriza in less than 24 hours. (Desnivel)The time he finally achieved was a record time of 15 hours and 40 minutes. This "corretrepa"The film combines running and climbing, and was inspired by Jorge Palacio "Palas" and Carlos Suárez, both of whom are outstanding climbers. The film documents their adventure, with June's key role in the planning and execution of the challenge.
Wednesday, 03 January 2024
- The Refugio de Góriz will close temporarily from 22 April to 12 July 2024 due to roof replacement works. (Barrabes). During this period, no bookings will be accepted and the usual services will not be offered, although basic security and meteorological functions will be maintained. The FAM and the refuge's nursery ask for understanding for the inconvenience that this closure may cause.
- Alex Txikon and his team are already at CB (4.200m) resting, after the great work of portage from C2 (5.600m approx.) to C3 (6.400m).. Mattia Conte and Tashi are resting at C1 (5.150m). In this way, the team of climbers completed yesterday the second rotation at altitude that they started 3 days ago, because, for safety reasons, due to the strong wind that was blowing, they had to retreat to BC. Second high altitude rotation of their winter expedition to Annapurna with a "perhaps too ambitious" attack, says Alex Txikon.
- What is winter? The upcoming expedition to Gasherbrum I has revived the debate on winter dates in mountaineering. (explorersweb).
"I will start my climb on 30 December. The goal is the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I"-Urubko
- Winter5 years of recording to obtain the time lapse of the year. We close this section with this video that arrives to us via Salt and Rock. "It took Jamie Scott 5 long winters to shoot Winter, a true masterpiece filmed between the states of New York in the USA and Montreal in Canada.".
Winter from Jamie Scott on Vimeo.
