Trekking in Nepal: Gokyo Valley and Everest Base Camp
Today we fly to the heart of the Himalayas to learn first-hand about a trek to Everest Base Camp and the Gokyo Valley. Leire Iriarte, who travelled there with her friend Leire Iriarte, tells us about her adventure. Prestige Adventure (a local trekking and expedition agency). Leire wanted to give us a short interview in which she tells us about her adventure and reveals some of the secrets of this fantastic route among the highest peaks of the planet, but first of all, a few words of advice about the route. practical information about trekking.
BRIEF INTRODUCTION:
The Everest Base Camp trekking can be even more spectacular if combined with the route that climbs up the Gokyo valley. This valley lies immediately west of the Everest Valley (Khumbu Valley) and is much less exploited than its better known neighbour to the east. In fact, the Gokyo Valley has only one traditional permanent settlement, the rest being summer pastures that now cater to passing hikers.
The most interesting option combines the trek to the top of the Dudh Khosi Valley with the Khumbu Valley via Cho La Pass, a pass at 5,360m that requires good acclimatisation. If you want to climb 6,000m, you have the opportunity to combine the trek with a climb of Imja Tse/Island Peak (6,189m).
The most common way to do this trek is to fly from Kathmandu to Luckla and then walk to Namche Bazaar (2 days on foot). Another more demanding option, but one that allows you to see Nepal's rural highland villages, is to start the trek from Jiri (8-9 days on foot to Namche).
Due to the altitude, the way in which the stages are divided up is quite well established. A gradual ascent is something that should be respected in order to achieve a correct acclimatisation and not to suffer from altitude sickness.
For the return journey, if the weather does not allow the planes to leave Lukla, the options are to pay for a helicopter to take you out (about 500 $), or to continue walking for another three days to where you can catch another means of transport to Kathmandu.
When planning your trip, it is advisable to do it with a local guideand leave plenty of time for unforeseen events.
THE ROUTE:
The most common is to start walking in Luckla, where the planes land, and head to Namche Bazaar (2 days), stopping at Phakding.
Near Namche Bazaar it is possible to see one of the most beautiful peaks on earth, Ama Dablam (6,856m), which means "Necklace of the mother of pearl". Further on, at Sanasa, the Gokyo route separates from the Khumbu route. Birch and rhododendron forests dominate and there are waterfalls in succession, but as you gain altitude, the rock takes centre stage.
Above Machermo, on the fifth day of trekking, the front of the Ngozumpa glacier, the longest in Nepal, appears and peaks such as Kangtega (6,782m) and Cho Oyu (8,201m) come into view. Once in Goyko, a small lakeside settlement, weather permitting, many trekkers ascend Goyko Ri (5,483m) for the best sunrise views of Everest and Lhotse in the region.
The route to the Khumbu Valley continues over Cho La Pass (5,360m), the key pass of this trek. Here it is advisable to be accompanied by a guide. Snow and ice can complicate the pass and it is possible to get lost in the fog and snow. In addition to this, there is the effect of the altitude.
Once in the Khumbu valley, the route climbs above Gorak shep in the direction of Everest BC. Here there are two (non-exclusive) options, to head to Everest Base Camp and see the famous Khumbu Icefall, and the one favoured by most, to ascend Kala Pattar, a shoulder at the foot of Pumori from which there are spectacular views in all directions, including the summit of Everest, Nuptse, Pumori or Ama Dablam.
The return journey is made fairly quickly, as on the descent through the Khumbu Valley, it is no longer necessary to maintain the obligatory acclimatisation pace of the ascent.
On the descent down the Khumbu valley the views are once again exceptional. If the clouds permit, we can see Makalu (8,481m) and, of course, Ama Dablam. The valley comes back to life as we lose altitude and the first forests appear. Almost at the end, before joining the route up, we pass Tengboche, where there is a Tibetan monastery that can be visited.
WE ASKED LEIRE IRIARTE ABOUT HER EXPERIENCE:
Leire Iriarte (Pamplona, 1981) has been involved in different aspects of sustainable development for years. She has recently finished a book entitled "Transiting the Matrix: Building the change we want to see in the world"in which he presents a humanist vision of the challenges of the 21st century. His mountaineering adventures begin in the Pyrenees, then the Alps by bicycle, the Andes, India, Southeast Asia, etc.
Leire, I'm sure I'm leaving something out. What do you find on these trips, that you don't stop at home?
Having circumnavigated the globe a few times and visited several corners of the globe, I have come to realise that travel is no longer measured in kilometres. I guess even coming to this conclusion has motivated me to want to expose myself to the unknown. I now believe that the most exotic journey is staying in the same place and being able to appreciate what surrounds you with a renewed perception.
Travelling to Nepal is a must if you are passionate about mountains. What makes the Himalayas different from other mountain ranges you have been to?
The Himalayas are majestic. The first time I saw Everest on the trek I couldn't believe it. It was a little black point, surrounded by white peaks with overhanging glariads. You had to cross many valleys to get there. The walls are huge; so big that you lose perspective. Silence and light reign. It is a place where life begins and ends, all at the same time. This makes it unique.
You were recently in India, near Nepal. Are they such different countries?
Yes and no. Both countries are unique. Both combine Hindu and Buddhist traditions. India sees the birth of the Ganges and the Indus and Nepal brings many tributaries. In India you have the Leh&Ladak area, which is the little Indian Tibet, with incredible scenery and culture. In Nepal you have a diversity both in the mountains and in society that is also very enriching. In both you will be surprised by the way of life, which is diametrically opposed to ours. They are ways of understanding life that are worth getting to know.
With this trek I had the opportunity to visit Nepal for the first time. At the airport, Damber Parajuli, from Prestige Adventurewho brought me a necklace of orange flowers as a welcome gift. The hospitality of this corner of the world is unique.
Why did you choose this route?
Because it seduced me more than Annapurna, which was its close competitor. I didn't study either of the routes well before embarking on the adventure. The Everest route is more inaccessible and I think it is less travelled. That's probably what helped me the most in choosing this option. I didn't want to be in a crowded place.
The best time for trekking in this region is from March to May and from September to December. Did you find many people in March?
No. Up to Naamche, which is two stages from Lukla, you would occasionally cross paths with someone, especially on the Tibetan bridges, but without crowds or the need to listen to the conversation of any group. From this point on, as I headed towards Gokyo, there was practically no one around and I walked practically alone.
Before going, did you do any training and do you have to be physically prepared?
I didn't do any training, although I had already crossed the 5000m barrier and my body must have remembered that. If you know how to walk in the mountains you have no problems, you just need to listen to what your body is telling you. The better prepared you are physically, the better, but in the mountains the rules are set by the terrain, you can't set them yourself. The stages are super marked for two reasons: because there is no accommodation to choose from and because each day you can only gain a certain amount of altitude so that your body can adapt well.
Is the route demanding, length of the stages, slopes, type of road, ice, climbing...?
No, it is not demanding if you respect yourself and your time. Personally, I only "suffered" one day, going from Gokyo to the Khumbo Valley, as I decided to extend the stage a bit to avoid having to spend the night in a dreary place. I was at almost 5000m and it started to snow. Those hours of walking took forever. Thanks to my guide who encouraged me, otherwise I would have stopped halfway and slept there. Up to Namche the road, although not passable by motor vehicles, is a fairly well maintained road. The Gokyo valley, being more remote, has only paths, which are easy to follow, although you need to have something to guide you. I met several people walking alone.
You hired a guide. Why?
Because I wanted to go alone but safe. My guide was a sweetheart and made my life easier. As I didn't know the route and didn't have it prepared, I felt much safer. I carried the weight, but he led the way.
What about accommodation?
I had no problems at all. On the Gokyo route there were no problems, because there were not many people, and in the Khumbo Valley, although there were more people, it was not a problem either. Perhaps in the autumn season it will be more crowded and you will have to book in advance.
And as for health precautions to be taken into account, were you following any kind of rules?
The necessary vaccinations should be discussed with your doctor, as they depend on what you already have. You have to make your water drinkable or buy bottled water. I had no problem with food; all hostels have something to eat. The menu is not very varied, but you can always find a soup or rice that tastes good.
Seeing these giants up close must be incredible, mustn't it?
It is incredible. I was fascinated by the Cho Oyu glacier. It is the perfect textbook glacier with a kilometre-long tongue, symmetrical moraines and hidden lakes as you cross it. It is awe-inspiring to enter such a landscape where there are hardly any birds. Just ice, rock, light, silence and the occasional cloud in constant evolution.
What is your next trip?
I'll tell you about it in the next post 😊. I'd love to go back to Patagonia, round the Khailas, explore Laos and reach out to the Andes in Colombia. I don't know which one will be chosen. Whichever one it is, I'll visit with my eyes wide open.
PRACTICAL GUIDE:
Best time of the year: September-December and March-May
Duration of the trekking: 15 days + 1 day acclimatisation
Highest point: 5,360m at Chola Pass (compulsory), 5,357 at Gokyo Ri (optional) and 5,643 at Kala Patthar (optional).
Permits required: Visa to enter Nepal, which can be done on arrival at Kathmandu airport, and permission to trek, which you do on the road before Namche.
Stage 1: Lukla - Phakding
Starting height: 2.850m; Final height: 2.610m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +150/-390; Distance: 7kms.
Stage 2 : Phakding - Namche Bazaar
Starting height: 2.610m; Final height: 3.420m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +1.270m/-460m; Distance: 11,8kms.
Stage 3 : Namche Bazaar - Dole
Starting height: 3.420m; Final height: 4.040m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +1.170m/-550m; Distance: 12,1kms.
Stage 4 : Dole - Machhermo
Starting height: 4.040m; Final height: 4.410m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +540m/-170m; Distance: 5,6kms.
Stage 5 : Machhermo - Gokyo Lake
Starting height: 4.410m; Final height: 4.750m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +430m/-90m; Distance: 7,1kms.
Stage 6 : Gokyo Lake - Gokyo Ri - Gokyo Lake
Start/end height: 4.750m; Height Gokyo Ri: 5.357m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +607m/-607m; Distance: 4,2kms.
Stage 7 : Gokyo Lake - Tagnag
Starting height: 4.750m; Final height: 4.680m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +150m/-220m; Distance: 4,1kms.
Stage 8 : Tagnag - Zongla (Chola Pass)
Starting height: 4.680m; Final height: 4.830m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +830m/-680m; Distance: 8,8kms.
Stage 9 : Zongla - Lobuche
Starting height: 4.830m; Final height: 4.920m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +220m/-130m; Distance: 6,6kms.
Stage 10 : Lobuche - Kala Patthar - Lobuche
Start/end height: 4.920m; Height Kala Patthar: 5.643m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +980m/-980m; Distance: 13,4kms.
Stage 11 : Lobuche - Dingboche
Starting height: 4.920m; Final height: 4.320m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +30m/-630m; Distance: 8,2kms.
Stage 12 : Dingboche - Tengboche Monastery
Starting height: 4.320m; Final height: 3.860m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +180m/-640m; Distance: 10,4kms.
Stage 13 : Tengboche Monastery - Namche Bazaar
Starting height: 3.860m; Final height: 3.420m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +460m/-900m; Distance: 9,8kms.
Stage 14 : Namche Bazaar - Phakding
Starting height: 3.420m; Final height: 2.610m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +460m/-1.270m; Distance: 11,8kms.
Stage 15 : Phakding - Lukla
Starting height: 2.610m; Final height: 2.850m; Cumulative difference in altitude: +390/-150; Distance: 7kms.
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