Ascent of Aconcagua and the Southern Andes: Climbing routes Horcones Valley (Normal) and Vacas Valley (Polish Glacier)
The 6965 m high Aconcagua is the highest mountain in America and the second highest in the world. Every year thousands and thousands of mountain lovers decide to embark on this marvellous adventure and only a tenth of them manage to complete the ascent successfully.
The name Aconcagua comes from the Quechua language "Ackon Cahuak" with a characteristic meaning of stone sentinel. Being one of the points of greatest interest for travellers from all over the world, it has become a place full of tourist routes. As of today, a number of 34 routes have been mapped out to climb to the top of the mountain, however, the so-called "normal route" or classic route is the most common, safest, and most comfortable.
In the following post we will make a brief summary of the routes, prices and other technical aspects of great interest for anyone interested in this wonderful adventure experience. Let's get started!
The book covers two popular trekking routes: the Normal route (Horcones Valley) and the Valle de Vacas route (Polish Glacier). It also includes trekking routes around Tupungato, the Maipo volcano and other acclimatisation treks, with suggestions of things to see and do around Mendoza and the city of Santiago.
The guide offers a wealth of practical and indispensable information for those taking on the challenge of Aconcagua. There is information on the journey to South America and the start of the trek, and essential technical knowledge to prepare for high altitude mountaineering, including advice on equipment, coping with altitude and strategies for acclimatisation. It offers expert advice on permits, food and water, hiring guides and mules, and health maintenance.
With maps and colour photos and complemented by background information on the mountain, its history, geology, wildlife and local culture, this is a comprehensive and must-read guide for anyone considering tackling Aconcagua.
Practical guide
How to get there?
It normally flies to Buenos Aires and from there we travel to Mendoza for the bus trip to Horcones or Penitentes.
- From Mendoza to Puente del Inca. Before arriving to any starting point of the route, it is necessary to access the Horcones Valley. Generally, travellers go from Mendoza City, following the International Route N.7 to get to Penitentes and Puente del Inca.
As with all major ascents, a period of time is recommended. acclimatisation as well as a complete rest before starting the trek. In this guide we will advise on some nearby treks and climbs that can help with acclimatisation.
When to go?
Aconcagua can be climbed from mid-November to mid-March. The high season is December/January. The most favourable weather conditions are mid-December to mid-February.
Books and maps
There are many books, guides, and blogs where you will find all the essential information you need to know before your big experience.
![Aconcagua and the Southern Andes: Horcones Valley (Normal) and Vacas Valley (Polish Glacier) ascent routes (International Trekking) [English language] (Cicerone Trekking & Mountaineering)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51RScC9PVGL.jpg)
The first thing to do before embarking on a trip like this is always to study and research the area, its possibilities, resources, limits, risks, points of interest, and other important issues. Without a doubt, it is a journey that is well worth the effort.
Difficulty
The highest trek in the world, the Aconcagua climb is a mountaineering route that requires relatively little technical experience, but climbers must acclimatise to the altitude and cold.
Despite the low technical difficulty we have already mentioned, the route is still relatively dangerous and inexperience can lead to serious accidents. This is why it is not advisable to go on your own unless you have an excellent physical preparation and the necessary knowledge of the high mountains as well as the use of the equipment.
Cities & Services
Santiago, Mendoza, Puente del Inca, Los Penitentes, Tupungato
Permits and guidelines
As for the prices or fees to be paid, you have to pay a permit for the ascent itself for an amount that varies depending on the season. There are also many adventure experience agencies that offer organised trips and generally charge between 2,500 and 4,000 euros for 18-20 days, plus flights to the location.
These organised trips can be booked from anywhere. Nowadays, thanks to new technologies, they offer services from Mendoza or even from the Aconcagua camps themselves. Among the services you can hire are accommodation, transport, mules, guides, porters, tents, and much more.
Curiosities of Aconcagua
As a curious fact, the record ascent time is currently 13 hours (ascent and descent), when the average duration of the climb for ordinary people is between 15 and 20 days in total. As is to be expected, professional and highly specialised athletes will complete the route in much less time than normal mountaineers.
Acclimatization near Aconcagua, Vallecitos and the Maipo Volcano
- Excursions in the Aconcagua area // Puente del Inca and Los Penitentes / A walk to the statue of Christ the Redeemer / Horcones Valley to Plaza Francia /
- Routes through Vallecitos // Vallecitos Ski and Mountain Lodge / Lomas Blancas (3850m) / Cerro Vallecitos (5770m) /
- Maipo Volcano
The Ascent of Aconcagua: Routes
The normal route (12 days)
As we have already mentioned, most hikers make the ascent by the "normal route" or also known as the Northern Route (although it really has a north-west orientation). This route does not present any particular technical difficulties and guides and experts recommend choosing it over the others.
However, it is interesting to know that there are a large number of additional routes. Above all, it is important to know that the high altitude, environmental conditions (extreme weather, winds, etc.) make most of the routes more physically or technically demanding. The normal route does not require the aid of ice axes or ropes and is ascended on foot. If you are well prepared for the cold, you will enjoy the trip much more.
Sections:
- Approach // Horcones(2950m) - Confluencia (3390m) - Plaza de Mulas Base Camp (4300M) /
- Ascent // Base Camp Plaza de Mulas (4300m) / Camp 1 Plaza Canadá (5050m) / Camp 2 Nido de Cóndores (5500m) / Camp 3 Berlin (5930m) / Summit (6962m) /
Valle de las Vacas (Polish Glacier) Route (14 days)
The other options, such as the Los Polacos Glacier route and others on the south face of the peak, are somewhat more physically and technically demanding.
Sections:
- Approach // Punta de Vacas (2350m) / Pampa de Leñas (2950m) / Casa de Piedra (3250M) / Plaza Argentina Base Camp (4200m)
- Ascent // Plaza Argentina base camp / Camp 1 (4900m) / Camp 2 (5850m) / Summit (6962m)
Aconcagua 360º Route
Approach via Punta de las Vacas, ascent from the east through the Quebrada de los Relinchos to the Plaza de Argentina base camp. Ascent via the Falso Polacos or Glaciar de los Polacos route, passing through the Guanacos and Cólera camps. Summit via the Canaleta and Filo del Guanaco, from the north. Descent along the normal route to Plaza de Mulas and along the Horcones River to the exit of the park.
Other routes in the Southern Andes
Trekking in the southern Andes, including the Tupungato mountain range and Santiago area.
Tupungato area
- Routes through Tupungato
- Tupungato via Chile and Río Colorado
- Trekking to the Colina del Fraile
Santiago area
- Routes near Santiago
- Valle del Morado
- La Campana National Park
- El Plomo (5430m)
- Province and San Roman
