Climbing belay: buying guide and comparison

One of the most important decisions a climber faces, especially a novice climber, is choosing a belayer or belay device. If you are looking for a good belayer, but don't know which model to choose or what to look for when buying one, you've come to the right place. In this article we are going to talk about the best climbing devices on the market, it is a very complete guide and comparison of which, when you finish reading, we assure you that you will get the answers you are looking for.

We recommend that you don't rush to buy a belay device or safety device, every decision regarding our own safety is important and requires time to acquire a quality product that effectively fulfils its purpose. In this article you will also discover the best climbing safety devices at the lowest and most competitive prices on the market, of course, from high quality brands in this sporting field.

The elements that make up a securing device

In the sport of climbing there is traditionally a debate about the best safety and belay device for a novice climber's first purchase. While belay devices with assisted braking, such as the famous GRIGRI 2 model, have a built-in mechanism that helps catch the climber's rope in the event of a fall, many experts in the field do not recommend novice climbers to use this type of belay device.

On the contrary, novice climbers are recommended to acquire ATC safety devices, which stands for air traffic controller. According to them, they are a better starting point for beginners, which ensures that beginners learn the proper climbing technique and learn to climb autonomously. This reason is argued because ATC safety devices do not have the aid to catch a fall like the model we mentioned earlier, so the belayer has no room for error and helps novice climbers to perfect the traditional climbing technique without the aid of other devices.

How to choose the best model for you?

This article has been compiled based on the experience and advice of professional climbers and, after a thorough analysis of the different safety, belay and belay systems in the climbing world, our recommendation for novice climbers is always to learn from an expert or through an AMGA certified course. This is because it is the only way to gain the necessary experience to be able to learn the climbing technique and in turn learn how to use the safety devices.

In this way, the climber will acquire the necessary skills to know how to handle both of the devices mentioned in the previous section and, when he/she is ready to continue climbing on his/her own, he/she will already have the necessary knowledge to make an informed choice of the type of safety device to purchase on the market.

Even so, we have to say that most professional climbers always carry both types of belay where the budget allows. The reason for this is that, although the GRIGRI 2 type belay is ideal for belaying and securing the climber, the need for an ATC for abseiling is usually required as well. For those who do not know what we mean by the latter term, abseiling is a climbing descent system that occurs on vertical surfaces using a specific rope technique.

On the other hand, we cannot fail to mention that some ATC belay devices, such as the Petzl REVERSO 4, also include a mode called "Guide Mode" or "Reverso". This mode is used to belay a second climber. If you anticipate that you will be climbing outdoors or leading a climb in the future, we also recommend that you take a look at this type of belay device with this capability.

Comparison between different models on the market

In this section we are going to make a comparison between the most recognised and best rated climbing safety devices on the market, from the best brands specialised in this sport.

Black Diamond ATC

This is the most basic belay device on the market and the most recommended for novice climbers. Just because it's the most basic doesn't mean it's bad, far from it, it's the best for getting started with climbing technique and learning the right way. This device provides climbers with proven functionality through a very simple and lightweight belay device design.

It is a tube style belayer and can handle a wide range of rope diameters, namely from 7.7mm to 11mm. The Black Diamond ATC Climbing Safety Device handles without problems when belaying for the safety of the climber, whether they are abseiling or in the middle of a gym session.

Petzl REVERSO 4

It is undoubtedly the most versatile safety device. Climbing is reduced to a few essential tasks: climbing, belaying, and rappelling. Fortunately, two thirds of a climber's experience can be supplemented with the Petzl REVERSO 4 belay device. It is an ATC type device (i.e. it does not have the fall catch mode as we have already seen) and is highly versatile.

The main feature of the wide range of REVERSO 4 models is the V-shaped friction channels made up of different asymmetrical grooves that add a lot of friction to the rope. When the climber is belaying, the additional friction also helps to catch the falls of his climbing partner as, when abseiling, it helps to control the speed of his descent.

Unlike all other ATC safety devices, the REVERSO 4's functionality is that it allows the belaying of a second climber from the device's own anchor, which is a very important feature if you are venturing on multiple climbs. Weighing only 59g, this device is very lightweight and also allows the use of any rope.

Petzl GRIGRI 2

As we have already told you in this guide, the main feature of this safety device is that it offers assisted braking that works by pinching the rope each time it moves rapidly through the device. During normal rope movement, the internal cam does not engage, which allows for good smooth rope handling. On the other hand, as soon as the rope starts to move quickly and the climber thinks about falling, the cam engages, pinches the rope and thus allows the fall to be arrested.

This is an excellent safety device for both the lanyard and the top rope. The GRIGRI 2 combines a patented handle design that allows for a very gradual release of the rope, giving the device incredible control when lowering. This device is optimized for a maximum rope diameter of 9.4mm to 10.3mm, although it can accept diameters as low as 8.9mm or as high as 11mm.