The 7 Climbing Knots You Need to Know
Rock climbing would not exist if it were not for climbing knots. Well, it might, but participation would be quite low and the mortality rate too high.
Knowing how to tie some basic climbing knots is an essential and lifesaving skill that every climber needs to know regardless of their climbing level.
- Every beginner climber should be able to tie the third knot in the following list while sleeping.
- The first knot on the list is the most essential and easiest to learn, but it can be a life saver when faced with a rock face.
- Knot number 6 is a must if you want to climb any wall with a rope.
The best 7 knots for climbing
Follow the tips below, and discover the climbing knots you absolutely must know before you even put on your harness.
Once you've figured out how to tie the climbing knots in these instructions, make sure you have someone check them before you use them in real life.
In climbing, there are usually no second chances with poorly executed knots. And reading instructions alone does not qualify you to use them in real climbing scenarios. It is better to have someone experienced who has seen you physically do them and check them before you test them.
1.- Eight-shaped knot with a double stopper tie
This knot is normally used to tie a climbing rope to your harness.
The figure-eight knot is the first climbing knot you will need to learn. And you'll use it every time you climb with a rope, so it's worth practising it so you can do it with your eyes closed.
This version has a double cap (or double overload) on the end to make it even more secure.
The knot of eight is a very secure knot as it only tightens under tension. However, this can make it difficult to untie.
It is important to start this knot in the correct place on the rope. Otherwise, you may be left with an extra long piece of rope hanging around, or not enough rope to complete the knot properly.
Before you start tying the knot, you will need to measure the rope:
- Hold the end of the rope in your right hand.
- Hold the rope and place this hand next to your right shoulder. Keep it there.
- Take the rope in your left hand and let the rope pass through your left hand until your left arm is extended at the level of your left shoulder.
- At this point, grab the rope with your left hand and release the end of the rope in your right hand.
- The point you hold in your left hand is where you should start the figure eight knot.
2.- Combat figure 8 knot
This knot is mainly used to quickly anchor ropes or yourself to a mooring station.
This is a very quick, easy and safe way to make a loop in the middle of the rope. It is used to secure to an anchor via a carabiner, or to create a loop to attach equipment if necessary.
Once tied, adjusting its position on the rope can be a little tricky. This makes it a difficult knot to work with if you need to tie it to a very specific length. The nail climbing knot is a good alternative as an easily adjustable anchor knot.
3.- Nail Knot
This knot is normally used to secure the anchors.
The Clove Hitch is an incredibly simple, yet very secure and versatile climbing knot that ties in the middle of a rope. Because it is so easy to adjust, it is an excellent knot to use for belaying to anchors, allowing you to tie securely in the perfect position.
To adjust the position of the knot in the rope simply loosen it, let the rope slide through the carabiner to the new position and put tension on it to tighten it.
4.- Barrel knot (triple knot in the hand)
This knot is mainly used to secure a "stopper" at the end of a rope when rappelling or belaying. It ensures that the end of the rope does not slip through the belay device.
This is a knot similar to the stopper knot (double overhand) used in a figure-of-eight tying knot. It has an extra loop than a double overhand (hence the "triple"). This makes it more secure when used alone. The following double fisherman's knot can also be tied with a barrel knot (instead of a double overhand).
5.- Water knot (Ring Bend)
This knot is ideal for joining the ends of the tubular netting to create a loop.
Because they are so easy to tie, some people use them to tie two pieces of rope together instead of the Double Fisherman's Knot. Water knots are easier to untie than double fisherman's knots (once the weight has been applied). But they can loosen over time, so always check before using them.
6.- Prusik's knot
This knot is essential for ascending a rope.
Prusik knots are friction hitches that grip the rope when weight is applied. When there is no tension across the knot it can slide up and down a static rope with ease.
These knots are extremely useful in rescue situations and are most often used in pairs: one is weighted while the other moves down the rope, switching between the two. However, they are also useful if you fall on a ledge. Attach a Prusik loop to your climbing rope from your harness and you can climb up the rope to grab onto the rock.
To tie a Prusik knot, you will first need a Prusik loop:
- Take a 60-70cm long rope.
- Tie the ends of the rope with a water knot or a double fisherman's knot.
7.- Double fisherman's curve
This is an ideal knot for tying the ends of two ropes.
This combination of two double knots in the hand is a very secure way of joining the ends of two ropes. It is also used to create a rope loop, as in the Prusik loop. Once weight has been put on the knot it can be very difficult to untie, which can be a big positive as well as a negative.
Practice makes perfect. Even if you don't have access to a proper climbing rope you can practice all these climbing knots with a pair of shoelaces or a rope.
But remember, no climbing knot should be used until it has been checked by someone who knows their stuff.
Enjoy your climb.
