How to choose the right crampons for your activity

How do I choose the right crampons for my activity? What types of crampons are there? Which ones fit my boot best? How do I care for them?. These are some of the questions we will try to answer below.

If you are thinking of getting your first crampons, you may be thinking that this is a very technical device reserved only for difficult mountaineering. This is not necessarily the case. The first crampons, or rather their ancestors, date back more than 2,000 years.. However, it was in the 20th century, in the Western Alps, that its specific use for mountain activities gave rise to the breakthroughs and the crampon we know today. In 1909, Henry Grivelcommissioned by the English engineer Oscar Eckenstein, would manufacture the first modern crampons (a model with 10 spikes arranged on the sole) and which provided unsportsmanlike advantages for the purists. Subsequently, in 1929, his son Laurent I would add the two front ends which were a key innovation in the conquest of the Alps.

Back to the present day, crampons are a safety element and are part of the basic winter mountain equipment. and the rest of the seasons, if you are going to walk on hard snow or icy slopes, when the soles of your boots do not grip. The best way to choose the right crampons is to know the purpose of the crampon.The manufacturers have now taken it upon themselves to design specific models for different uses in the mountains. At the end of this article we will look at the most suitable crampons according to the purpose, but first, let's get to know the tool.

Materials and weight

Crampons are mainly made of two materials, steel of different types and/or aluminium.

• Steelis recommended for mountaineering in general because it guarantees resistance and durability in snowy, icy and mixed terrain.

• Aluminiumhas the great advantage of the lightness but it is much less durable and wears out quickly. Crampons made of this material are designed for occasional use and are intended for mountain skiers and hikers. They are designed for the snow and to go inside the backpack. They are certainly not intended for a route that includes rock sections or ice climbing.

There are hybrid models combining an aluminium rear (lightweight) with a steel front (strong).

Parts of a crampon

The crampons are made up of a back part and a front part, where the tips are located, joined by a connecting bridge, a system of bindings and "optionally" anti-clogs.

Jointing system

The binding system is adjustable to adapt to the size of the boot. The most common ones consist of a metal bar, a box rail system (practically disappeared), or a Dyneema cord in the most flexible binding systems (ski). The screw used to regulate the length has long since been replaced by other more efficient pin-type mechanisms. Crampons can be classified according to the system of connection between the back and the front part:

• Articulated: They are used for skiing and mountaineering in general. They are best suited to a flexible boot but when placed on a rigid sole, they work almost as well as rigid or semi-rigid crampons.

• Semi-targeted: They are used for general mountaineering but also for technical terrain, from snowshoeing to ice climbing. The preference for semi-rigid consistency has increased and they seem to have replaced rigid models in most cases. They allow a certain flexibility that allows them to adapt to any type of rigid boot and in mixed terrain, they work better than rigid ones.

• Rigid: are designed for technical ice climbing and for use with very stiff boots. Their greater stiffness provides better support and less energy expenditure. This box type model is practically extinct.

Tips

Normally the crampons come with 12 tips for the classic mountaineering models, 10 for the lighter ski models and 14 for the more technical ice climbing models. In the 12-point models, 10 points are distributed on the sole of the boot, following the contour of the boot.This avoids the rail effect caused by aligned toes. On the toe of the boot, the toe cap is placed frontally the other two tips. Of the two parts that make up the crampon, 4 points are located at the back and the rest at the front, depending on the model.

The front tips of the crampon are used for steep slopes.where it is not possible to put the whole foot on the ground. The technical models, in addition to the two front spikes, have a second row of secondary spikes that point forward. They are ideal for winter runners and for moving forward facing the wall on moderate and steep slopes, and ice and mixed climbing. On the more technical models, the front tips are vertical instead of horizontal, imitating the tip of an ice axe. and in some, the two prongs are replaced by a single prong that allows insertion into a crack.

This type of technical crampon allows you to replace, adjust or reconfigure the tips.

Bindings

The binding system is what will allow the crampon to stay attached to the boot and not come off. There are three types of bindings: belts, automatic and semi-automatic.

• Straps or universal: this type of bindings are the most versatileThe crampons can be attached to any type of boot. The front part of the crampon is usually fitted with a plastic fastening. This system is not as precise and is a little more difficult to adjust.
• Automatic: only work with boots that, in addition to having flange at the rearhave flange at the front. This type of fastener appears in the most technical models and in the ultra-light models dedicated to ski mountaineeringThe crampon is attached to the front with a wire toe cap and a heel pad at the back. The crampon is attached to the front with a wire toe cap and a heel pad at the back. They are easy to fit and very preciseIt is essential that they fit perfectly to your boot. Before buying crampons, try them with the boots you are going to use and check over time the wear of the strap. These crampons incorporate a ring-buckle to avoid losing them in case they come loose.
• Semi-automatic or hybrid: As with the automatic models, they incorporate a heel pad at the back. The front part is adjusted by means of straps and a plastic piece. They are suitable for for rigid and semi-rigid boots with back flange. They are easy to fit. Just as with the automatics, it is essential to check that the boot fits perfectly to the crampon and that the boot has this flange.

Antizuecos / Antiboots

These are two pieces of rubber that are placed on the sole of the crampon, which prevent the snow from accumulating to form clogs so that the tips can penetrate the snow. In this way, the climber does not have to constantly hit the crampon and the risk of falling is reduced, especially on descents.

In the mountains in general, it is essential that you always wear crampons with anti-clogs.. If they are not supplied, you can probably buy them separately or make them yourself.

Orientation of the frame

There are two frame orientation options: vertical and horizontal. The horizontal frames have become more common because they offer better walking flex and almost all the features of an upright frame.

The vertically oriented cramponsof box typeThe horizontal frames are more rigid and are basically used with plastic boots and very stiff boots for icefall climbing. Nowadays, they have been replaced in most cases by horizontal frames.

Crampon adjustment

The performance and safety of the crampons will depend on the compatibility with the bootThe type of footwear determines the rest of the options available. Knowing whether the sole is rigid, semi-rigid or flexible will largely determine the type of crampon and the type of binding. Rigid soles offer a better fit than flexible soles.

Very flexible slipper-type boots are not designed for walking with crampons.. In any case, the more flexible boots will go better with a articulated crampon to suit your stride and strap bindings. The type of boot you can wear in summer will not normally have a flange for a rear binding and unless you have more than a few crampons, the the only option will be those with straps.

Pay attention to the toe and the heelCheck that they fit snugly into the piping and that the front ends protrude 2-2.5cms. Practice at home or in a comfortable place how to place them. And remember that there is a crampon for each foot. If when you put on a crampon with straps without tying them, the crampon holds when you lift your foot, it means that the crampon is well adjusted. In automatic and semi-automatic crampons, the heel straps usually have a micrometric adjustment thread.

Note that the bar regulating the length of the crampon does not protrude from the back, in the case of a very small foot, which could cause snagging and tripping, but also does not go all the way to the top of its length. There should be at least a couple of notches left over.

When putting on strap crampons check that the buckle is on the outside, that means they are the right foot. Remove the twists from the flat strap, pass it through the front buckle from the outside to the inside and through the back buckle from the inside to the outside. Go around the front of the boot and fasten with the quick release. Check that there is not too much tape left over and cut or roll it up so that it does not cause snags. Remember that crampons are the last thing to put on.. Gaiters and boot covers are put on first, followed by the crampon.

The best crampons are those that are designed for the type of activity you are going to do. When buying crampons, try them with the boots you are going to use and if you use more than one pair, try them with all of them. Any crampon will not fit any boot.

Maintenance of crampons

Put to dry The crampons should be wrapped in a cloth and wiped with a cloth to remove any moisture before putting them away.

Lubrica the moving parts. Check that the nuts and bolts are tight and loosen them to allow the crampon to rest if you are not going to use it for a long time.

Sharpen their tips by hand with a fine metal file. Only on the edge. The tips that wear the most are the front ones. Do not sharpen them excessively, only if you are going to do technical ice routes, and if they are made of aluminium, be careful, they are designed for snow and will wear quickly.

Replaces the belts if you see that they are worn. The same goes for the other parts, if that is possible. Before leaving home, examine your crampons and check that they are in good condition.

Choosing crampons according to my activity

Well, we already know all the characteristics of a crampon, but now it's time to choose the ones that best suit our activity. Manufacturers have designed specific models for each mountain use and this is fantastic, but it makes it difficult to make a decision, but don't worry, it won't be that difficult.

Here everyone can have their preferences for one brand or another and find equivalent crampons, but for the sake of simplicity, we have focused on the Petzl brand. A brand known by all of us for its experience and the quality of its products.

Mini-crampons and non-slip soles

They are suitable for when crampons are not needed. For approaching easy terrain, running through snow or going out for bread in Madrid after the Filomena squall. They are not a substitute for real crampons. In other brands, the mini crampons appear in a shape more similar to that of a traditional crampon.

Non-slip sole SPIKY PLUS from Petzl

Non-slip soles Spiky Plus can be fitted to any type of footwear to increase traction on icy and slippery surfaces. Available in different sizes: Size 1 (up to 41), Size 2 (42 to 45) and Size 3 (46 and up).

Ultralight crampons

Designed for ski mountaineering and snow progression. If what you are looking for are crampons to use on snow when you go ski mountaineering and that occupy and weigh very little inside the backpack, this type of crampons made of aluminium will be the best option. They will also be an ideal option for a very occasional use, such as a summer hike like the Aneto tour, in which they will travel for 3 days inside the backpack to be used for 10 minutes. Be careful on this type of hike not to use them on the rocky sections that sometimes occur between one snowfield and the next. If you don't plan to take them off, you might want to consider a more classic model for general mountaineering.

Models LEOPARD LLF y LEOPARD FL from Petzl10-point ultra-light crampons thanks to their aluminium construction. Designed for ski mountaineering and snow progression. The flexible CORD-TEC system of joining the front and rear parts makes them very compact during transport. The difference is in the type of bindings.

LEOPARD LLFwith LEVERLOCK FIL bindings. For boots with front and rear flange.

LEOPARD FL: with FLEX LOCK bindings. For use with walking and approach boots, without front and rear flange.

Hybrid model

With steel front and aluminium rear, for approaches and skiing on glacier terrain.

Model IRVIS^® HYBRID from Petzl

The crampons IRVIS HYBRID have a steel front part and an aluminium rear part which gives them an excellent performance/technicity/weight ratio and the possibility of cramponing on ice. The flexible CORD-TEC system of joining the front and rear parts makes them very compact during transport. The LEVERLOCK UNIVERSEL fastening system allows the crampon to be adapted to any boot toe. 10-point crampons with ANTISNOW and carrying bag included.

Lightweight ski crampons

Crampons for those looking for something tougher and more durable for ice cramponing.

Petzl IRVIS model10-point crampons, lightweight and compact, for snow and ski mountaineering. Made of steel with reduced thickness.

LEVERLOCK UNIVERSEL: for boots with or without front flange and rear flange.

FLEXLOCK: for boots without flanges.

Classic mountaineering in general:

12-point crampons for classic mountaineering, glacier terrain and snow runners. This type of crampon is made of steel so they are stronger than the ones we have seen before and also slightly heavier depending on the bindings, between 770g and 892g for the next petzl model. A strap system will also work with summer boots, so keep this in mind if you're not willing to walk in rough winter boots to use crampons for a little while.

Petzl VASAK model

LEVERLOCK UNIVERSEL: for boots with or without front flange and rear flange.

FLEXLOCK:for boots without flanges.

Technical mountaineering

If all of the above is not enough for you and you are practising difficult routes with large ice overhangs, vertical waterfalls and breathtaking mixed terrain, you will need technical mountaineering crampons. These crampons are stiffer, 12-14 point crampons with T-shaped front points and an ice axe blade pattern for penetrating hard ice and mixed terrain. They are slightly heavier than the previous models (810g-840g) if we compare the same model of bindings. For this type of crampon, automatic and semi-automatic bindings are the most popular.

Model SARKEN from Petzl

Crampons SARKEN for technical mountaineering, with LEVERLOCK UNIVERSEL binding. The T-shaped front tips allow good penetration on hard ice and good comfort on mixed terrain, while offering good stability on snow.

Ice climbing

If icefall climbing is your thing, you'll need specially designed 14-point ice crampons. As with the technical models, automatic and semi-automatic bindings are the norm. In addition to a design of front and secondary tips specially designed for different ice shapes, these crampons allow you to replace the front tips, prolonging the life of the crampon and allowing you to change the shape to an asymmetric tip or convert them to a single-point crampon.

Model LYNX from Petzl

The crampons LYNX are a multi-purpose model for ice and mixed climbing. With modular front tips (short/long single-point, double-point or asymmetric double-point), they adapt to any difficult route, from snow runners to ice and mixed climbing. They are compatible with most mountain boots, with or without front flange, thanks to LEVERLOCK UNIVERSEL bindings. The lifespan of the crampons can be extended by replacing the front tips.

Ice climbing, mixed and dry tooling

Model DART from Petzl

Technical and lightweight, the crampons DART are designed for ice climbing, mixed and dry tooling. With modular front tips (short/long single-point, double-point or asymmetric double-point), they adapt to any difficult route, from snow runners to dry tooling. The half-tips on the sides of the ski provide stability on any type of ice relief (cauliflower, petal, etc.). The arrangement of the tips allows precise and effective hooking. The lifespan of the crampons can be extended by replacing the front points or the front blocks.

Single-point crampons to be screwed to the boot

D-LYNX

Screwing on single-point crampons D-LYNXThe new, directly on the boots, allows a considerable reduction in weight and a gain in rigidity. The shape and angle of the tips are designed for experts in dry tooling, mixed and ice climbing. The D-LYNX provides greater strike precision thanks to its front toe adjustment front/rear.

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