Routes in Selva de Irati, to discover the kingdom of the forest

With more than 18,000 hectares, the Irati Forestin the Navarrese Pyrenees, is the second largest beech-fir forest in Europe (only surpassed by the Black Forest in Germany) and the best preserved. It is located in NavarreThe area extends across the Atlantic Pyrenees from Sola and Lower Navarre to the south-west of France.

If you are looking for beautiful, lush landscapes, this place is a must-see.As soon as you set foot in this protected natural area, you will feel like you are in a fairy tale of fairies and gnomes.

Here are some shortcuts so you don't get lost: ROUTES / When to go / How to get there / What to see and do / Sleeping and eating.

Routes, the editors' selection.

Circular route in the Irati Forest: Akerreria and Malgorra from the Houses of Irati

(Click here to see the route)

The route that we propose partly follows two of the many marked trails that run through this natural area, the Old Way to Casas de Irati (SL-NA 60A) and the Old Way to Koixta (SL-NA 69). Possibly the best combination of marked trails to get to know the interior of the Irati Forest and the Urtxuria ravine, one of the two main tributaries that form the Irati River.

As an alternative to the local path, we propose a variant that runs along the ridge between Mount Akerrería (1,317m) and Malgorra (1,363m), a natural separation between the Urtxuria and Urbeltza basins. A place to get lost in, and this is not a metaphor. It is a confusing area, without references, difficult to find your way around, covered by a thick forest and with so many paint marks in some areas that rather than helping, they confuse even more. In short, this is a route that, despite not being too long and not too steep, should not be taken lightly.

Circular route from the Orbaizeta Arms Factory to the peaks surrounding the Txangoa Ravine.

(Click here to see the route)

The route we propose, as well as being a good way of getting to know the mountains between Roncesvalles and the Irati Forestis a route with an important historical and natural attraction. From the starting point, at the Royal Ammunition Factory of OrbaizetaThe Roman tower-trophy of Urkulu, the Lepoeder pass (an outstanding point on the Royal French Route and the legends surrounding Charlemagne and his knight Roland), the Etzangio peat bog (a curious habitat of carnivorous plants), Ortzanzurieta (the highest peak in the area, unsurpassed by any other until the Cantabrian Sea), various remains of trenches from the Convention War or the numerous mugarris (boundary stones) that mark the border. The proposed route climbs all the peaks that delimit the Txangoa ravine, which means that, in addition to being a long route, it is also a long way up the Txangoa ravine. significant difference in altitude (+1500m).

As for the fauna, the Irati Forest is home to countless species of vertebrates and invertebrates. Thanks to the richness of its flora, there is an abundance of species of insects xylophages such as the Rosalia or the stag beetle, food for the woodpeckers on the evolutionary scale. The mammals that can be found in their natural state in this large reserve range from the wild boar, at deer and different species of batsto the well-known vole, badgers, and squirrels. Undoubtedly, a walk in which wherever you look you can enjoy an unparalleled experience.

📅 When to go

Due to the richness of the landscape, any time of the year is a good time to visit this natural site in the north of the country. However, the best time to visit Irati is autumn -October, November - as it is the one that offers a spectacular and exquisite colour to the eyes of the visitor. At the beginning of November is undoubtedly the best time to appreciate the explosion of intense yellow, red and warm brown colours. A chromatic spectacle in every sense of the word.

⛙ How to get there

There are two ways to reach this magnificent place. On the one hand, you can get there from the village of Ochagavía -The largest in the Salazar Valley, where you can find the Tourist Information Office, is the largest in the Salazar Valley. From there, take the NA-2012 road towards the Sanctuary of the Virgen de Musquilda. This 12th-century church stands at the top of the hill from where you can stop and contemplate Ochagavía in all its splendour.

After a break to stretch our legs, we will go to Houses of Irati -The road starts to descend until it finally reaches the Virgen de las Nieves Chapel. The vehicles arrive here and you have to pay a fee. maintenance fee for access to Irati, which varies between 1 and 5 euros.. You can only access the park on foot or by bicycle, for which we will have around 37′. From this point - with an information point - you can access a multitude of signposted routes, routes for mountain bikes, and there is also a bar-restaurant. 

Another option in the Salazar Valley will be to access it from the Viewpoint of PikatuaThere are also mountain bike routes and signposted trails. In this area you will find the Nordic Ski Centre of Abodi. 

The other access route will be through the Aezkoa Valley. It leaves from Orbaizeta in the direction of the ruins of the Royal Weapons Factory. There is a signposted turn-off before reaching it leading to the Irabia reservoirwith trails and routes both on foot and for bicycles. In Arrazola, on the way to the reservoir, we have an information point -open in high season and in the middle season at weekends-.

The distance between Pamplona and the Irati Forest is 1h 45min..

🍂 Irati Forest 

Among the abundance of beech you can also enjoy the beauty of the spruce, pine, oak, oak, grassland, yew, hazel, serval, blueberry, poets' daffodil, snowdrop and other acidophilous species. In addition, as it is a Special Protection Area for BirdsThe singing of different species of birds will be the soundtrack of your walk. You should know that in Irati you will find the Lizarboia Integral Reserve and the Mendilatz and Tristuibartea Nature Reserves.

📸 What to see and do in Selva de Irati

A visit to the Irati Forest is worth spending at least a full day in order to calmly appreciate each of the wonders that it possesses in its interior. For sports enthusiasts, there are numerous routes to do with your bicycle. If, on the other hand, you want to go hiking there are infinite paths that will take you into this magical forest.

What you will see are the different wild species of animals that roam the vastnesses of this Protected Natural Parknestled in their home. Entering the forest will make you fly and daydream, as you advance you will see that the jungle thickens gracefully, trapping you in its entrails. If you look on the ground, at the foot of the trees or in the middle of the path, you will be able to differentiate different species of mushrooms and fungiI'm sure if you look closely you'll see some trolls poking their noses out too.

In addition, the Irabia reservoir and the river Irati give it a touch of a worthy film set. You can soak in it or simply contemplate its immensity and the different species of amphibians that can be seen on its shores. Harmless little creatures, a perfect example of the growth of life when conditions are optimal and respectful of the environment.

The possibilities are endless, from visiting the villages nestled in Irati to paths and trails of all possible difficulties and different lengths. Routes for every visitor: for children, adults, adults, sportsmen and women... All of them well signposted...

Irati is one of the richest areas of Navarre, not only environmentally, but also culturally and archaeologically. In the area around the Irati Forest there are several sights that surprise visitors every day. Below is a list of the most important tourist attractions:

Houses of Irati. Also known as the Casas del Rey (King's Houses), they date from the 18th century and are located about 100 metres away from the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves. For many years they were the refuge of the guards of this forest. However, they have now been remodelled and now house the Irati Forest Interpretation Centre.

Azpegi. The area of Azpegi has two major attractions: the megalithic station of Azpegi and the Roman tower of Urkulu.

As for the megalithic monuments, constructions made with large blocks of stone by prehistoric man, are found in the Azpegi area. Its nature is of great importance and it also has several isolated monuments. To reach them, start from the Orbaizeta factory, leaving behind the Nabala and Txangoa turn-offs, about 2 kilometres. The circular route covers a total distance of about 5 kilometres and you can see how the different archaeological sites are built on the slopes of the mountains. Quite a spectacle.

The Roman tower of Urkulu is located in the municipality of Orbaizeta. Identified in 1976 by the archaeologist Jean Luc Tobie, this Roman trophy tower was erected in the 1st century BC to commemorate the conquest of Aquitaine and to demarcate the new conquered territories. The tower is shaped like a conical throne with a base of almost 20 m in diameter and almost 4 m high. It is about 3 metres thick and the remains of the original stonework await inside.

A few metres away, you can still see the remains of a fort built at the end of the 18th centuryThe town was the site of a war between France and Spain during the Convention War in 1793. On the slopes of Mount Urkulu there are also several prehistoric remains such as cromlechs or dolmens.

The Orbaizeta arms factory. Located in the Aezkoa Valley, it was very active for 100 years, between 1784 and 1884. During those years it produced ammunition for the wars and even made cannons. But from the middle of the century onwards it began to produce quality iron, which was then sold and transformed in the factories of Oviedo and Trubia. It was the rise of the high lathes that led to the closure of this factory. In 2007 it was declared an asset of cultural interest.

Its proximity to the border meant that it suffered numerous attacks by the opposing troops, looting and fires. Nowadays you can see how the vegetation has completely taken over the site. As it is an enclave in ruins, it is necessary to pay special attention and walk carefully. There are information panels and the visit is free and open-air.

Hiking

There are a large number of signposted routes that you can follow to discover the secrets of the area one by one. We have trails suitable for all ages, such as the interpretive trail Erreka-Idorra or the route of the megalithic station of Azpegi. On the other hand, from the Our Lady of the Snows several trails start, such as the one that leads to the Waterfall of the Cube. If we have approached the Abodi mountain range you will be able to discover it both hiking and in winter by doing rackets. In the area you will be able to climb mountains such as the Ori Peak or the Urkulu Peak. And if you're looking for crossings, the area is also home to the GR 11 Pyrenean Path and the GR12.l be well signposted, less than 10km long and have a green and white panel at the start.

Mycology

In the Salazar area of the Irati Forest the practice of collecting and classifying mushrooms is permitted and in a controlled manner there is the possibility of collecting the different species that grow in the forest. The permits daily prices range from 8 to 80 euros, depending on the season, and can be purchased at Las Casas de Irati, at the beginning of the trail.

Nordic skiing.

In Abodi there are some 28 kilometres of snow slopes for lovers of this sport. The route is marked out between Abodi and Irati and has several circuits. There are also 14 kilometres for snowshoeing. The centre is located in Larrau at an altitude of over 1,300 metres.

MTB

The "BTT Irati" centre is located between two valleys: Zuberoa and Salazar, which share the Irati forest, extending to the valleys of Cize and Aezkoa. Here you will find 16 mountain bike routes of varying difficulty and difficulty, with more than 400 kilometres of cycling routes.

🛌 Where to sleep and where to eat in Selva de Irati

Due to its size, there is a wide range of rural accommodation (Click to book) in the area. The nearby villages are not usually overcrowded with establishments, but they are all welcoming and have the basic services to spend a few days in total comfort and, without a doubt, in an exceptional place given its environmental richness.

The accommodation is varied (see accommodation in Selva de Irati), but practically all of them are built in stone and blend in with the surroundings, worthy of any village of past centuries where cement was rare. It is also a luxury to sleep in these places, as the quality of the stone insulates you from the inclement weather. In this way, in winter you will keep the interior warmth and in summer they are cool.

Ochagavía is one of the villages with an exquisite range of rural accommodation. It is relatively close to the different routes and one hour from Pamplona, the capital of Navarre. The price depends on the season, but it ranges from between 35 and 55 euros per night. They are usually complete rural houses, with several rooms, ideal for groups, although there are also some that can be booked for a small number of people. There are also charming rural hotels as the Orialde Guesthouse or the  Hotel Rural Auñamendi.

Most of the cottages in Ochagavía are located within the town centre. However, for those who want to get lost and spend a completely isolated holiday, there are also some located on the outskirts, on the road that leads to the Irati Forest. To the visitor's liking.

Other areas close to the Irati Forest that have a wide range of accommodation are: Jaurrieta, Olaldea, Hiriberri, Saragüeta, Orbaizeta, Auritz-Burguete, Izalzu, Aria, Sarries, Abaurrea Baja, Garralda, Ezcaroz, Oronz, and Ustés. In Villanueva de Aézcoa-Hiriberri you can find the Aguerre Rural HouseThe owner, Anabel, will welcome you as if it were your own home. 

As an alternative to rural accommodation, many backpackers or pilgrims, some of them passing through on their way to Santiago, choose to stay in hostels and hostels. Hostels usually have rooms to share. You rent a bed in a shared room with bunk beds, a shared bathroom, a common kitchen and facilities such as terraces or reading rooms. They also have a room with a washing machine for those who need it.