The French Way: a guide to its mountain and hiking stages

The French Way has always been much more than a traditional pilgrimage path; it makes the traveller feel that he or she is crossing lands full of stories, changing landscapes as if crossing the pages of an old adventure book. Travelling nearly 800 kilometres, pilgrims face often unexpected physical challenges, but with the pleasant reward of extraordinary views, profound silences and that unmistakable personal satisfaction after overcoming each demanding journey. It is common for those who complete even a single mountain to describe indelible memories of the high altitude stages, much more intense than the endless plains. Curiously, few explain that, before setting off on the trail, they carefully study resources such as all the stages of the French Way to organise their mountain trek with a certain logic, even if emotion and the weather end up deciding for them.

Not all sections of the French Way are equally demanding; in fact, most of them pass through friendly and open areas, like the outstretched hand of friends. However, there are some climbs that mark the character of the hiker, turning the adventure into a real test of will and endurance. Among them, some names arouse respect: crossing the Pyrenees at the very beginning is like opening a book with the most intense chapter, while the green ramps of O Cebreiro, near the end, make you rethink the strength still left in your legs. Although many people perceive the ascents only as obstacles, those who have experienced the Camino fondly remember the epic climate of these places, where the breath mingles with the fog and the view is lost in almost infinite horizons.

These are the most significant mountain landmarks in the experience of the route, each with its own rhythm and significance:

• Pyrenees (SJPDP - Roncesvalles): probably the most dreaded initial ascent, but also the most talkative: it tells you with every step what the rest of your journey will be like.
• Alto del Perdón (Navarre): its ascent sustains the illusion and the effort, while its rocky descent tests the ankles like a bad joke.
• Cruz de Ferro (León): Not even the coldest of walkers can avoid the thrill here; the altitude gives it an air of natural sanctuary and the descent seems endless.
• O Cebreiro (Galicia): Its short but intense ascent is usually the threshold to Galicia and the moment that many consider to be their "baptism" as a true pilgrim.

Which mountain stages define the French Way?

It is curious how, despite the fact that most of the Camino is calm and polite, what really sticks in the memory is the intensity of the mountain. It's not all about difficulty: each ascent offers postcard-perfect scenery and, for some, the thrill of adding another success to the collection of stories. Mountain stages rarely go unnoticed and, in fact, they create a kind of secret brotherhood among those who have passed them.

Stage / Zone	Main Challenge	Maximum Altitude Approx.
Pyrenees (SJPDP - Roncesvalles)	Strong and long initial ascent	1.430 m
Alto del Perdón (Navarre)	Steady ascent and rocky descent	770 m
Cruz de Ferro (León)	High altitude ascent and very long descent	1.500 m
O Cebreiro (Galicia)	Short but very intense final ascent	1.300 m

Crossing the Pyrenees: your first major challenge

Setting off from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and looking towards Roncesvalles produces a mixture of fear and emotion. For many, the crossing of the Pyrenees is equivalent to passing the Camino entrance exam, an initial filter capable of separating the undecided from the truly convinced. Nature seems to be the main character here, unpredictable and beautiful, offering landscapes as changeable as the mood of the walker himself.

Napoleon's Route and the alternative via Valcarlos

There is clearly no single way to cross this challenge. The famous Napoleon Route, recommended on clear days, is as scenic as it is demanding: some 24.8 kilometres in which the gradient rises like a river after a storm, rising to over 1,250 metres, crossing meadows and beech forests that could well serve as the setting for fantasy stories.

On the other hand, if the weather decides to rebel, the route through Valcarlos is more benevolent and less technical, although rather less epic; in a way, it is as if the Camino gives you the option to prepare your mood first before demanding more effort.

What level of preparation is needed?

There is no denying it: this stage requires a satisfactory physical condition and, preferably, some mountain experience. If you don't carry water or underestimate fatigue, the Pyrenees can be your greatest lesson in humility.

The key climbs after the Pyrenees

After leaving behind the great summits at the start, there is no shortage of other climbs that test the morale: some travellers report that every kilometre uphill taught them more about patience and endurance than any self-help book. Among the favourites or dreaded ones, depending on who you ask, are the Alto del Perdón, the Cruz de Ferro and the colossal entrance to Galicia via O Cebreiro.

The Alto del Perdón: an icon of Navarre

The climb here is deceptively short but full of anecdotes: one feels watched by the sculpture of pilgrims that presides over the summit. The real challenge, to the surprise of many, comes on the descent towards Uterga, where the scree seems to seek out the most confident feet.

La Cruz de Ferro: symbolism in the Montes de Leon

At this point, the Camino takes on a life of its own and brings out all its spiritual aura. At the Cruz de Ferro, those who arrive usually take part in the traditional ritual of leaving a stone, as if it were an act of collective magic. Afterwards, the eternal descent to El Bierzo is a reminder that here there is no glory without effort.

O Cebreiro: the "queen stage" at the entrance to Galicia

Finally, O Cebreiro welcomes the pilgrims with open arms and a slope that seems to have no end. In the last 8 kilometres, the effort required becomes evident, and reaching the summit becomes a small personal victory worthy of applause. Some say that the beauty of the landscape and the panoramic views justify every drop of sweat.

The truth is that, if we add up the accumulated metres of ascent, they could compete with any alpine challenge. Facing these slopes is, more than a question of muscles, an exercise of will and serenity.

For each summit reached, the Camino gives an unexpected gift: moments of introspection, a sense of belonging and, of course, landscapes that hardly fit in a photo. In the end, the traveller's memory is filled with small victories and encounters, confirming that the mountain, like life, always offers the best reward to those who dare to face it with true enthusiasm.