Vias Ferrata: initiation and everything you need to know for progression on via ferratas

First of all, via ferrata is an adventure activity that allows you to enjoy the heights, with a lesser degree of commitment than on classic climbing routes - this will depend on the difficulty of the via ferrata, as there are some very "distressing" ones.

I want to give a general overview to serve as a guide for those who are new to the activity. I leave here some shortcuts, so that you can go to the section that interests you: Team / Technique / Degrees of difficulty / Routes in Spain.

What is a Via Ferrata?

• Like Via Ferrata is the name given to a set of artificial installations that have been placed on a rock wall or on a itinerary horizontal, in order to be able to safely climb a route, be it hiking or mountaineering. However, it should be borne in mind that a fall from a via ferrata can be very dangerous if the safety rules are not followed to the letter. 

• The materials commonly used in via ferratas are nails, handrails, chains, clamps, zip wires and holdsamong others. The most classic via ferratas are to be found in the Italian Alps, France, Switzerland, Germany and Spain.

• In steep places, without the presence of via ferrata equipment, the progression on such a site would require knowledge of rope climbing techniques, typical of mountaineering.

A bit of historyWhen did via ferrata begin?

The mountain Hoher DachsteinThe 2,995-metre-high mountain range in Austria is the birthplace of the the first Via Ferrata in 1843. By 1869, also in Austria, a via ferrata was equipped on Mt. Grossglockner and in 1903 in The Dolomites.

(YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN: Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites)

By the end of the 19th century, many mountainous areas in Europe already had via ferratas, but their greatest boom came during the war, as they soldiers used them to reach outposts in the most inaccessible areas of the Alps..

By the end of the wars, these enclaves, once used for military purposes, had become trails used by hikers and mountaineers for leisure and recreation.   

Among these former military roads, the most important are the Ferrata of the Trenches in the Marmolada, the Ferrata Ivano Dibonain the Monte Cristallothe Alpine Way in the Dolomites of Sesto and the Ferrata Lipella in Tofane.

Equipment and material needed: What do you need to do a via ferrata?

(YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN: Basic via ferrata equipment and material)

What is the main equipment for via ferrata (I have included a product choice for each category of equipment)?

• Element mooring with energy absorber (Edelrid - Kit Ultralite 5.0)Why a specific lanyard for via ferrata? It is an energy dissipator in the event of a fall. If we use a simple bungee, the fall factor will be enormous and we run the risk of breaking it or injuring our body. The different dissipation systems will make a fall risk-free. Attention: Never attach a lanyard strap to the harness (prevents the deployment of the energy absorber).
• Helmet (PETZL Borea).
• Belay device, descender, rope, rope clamp, carabineers (Edelrid HMS), express beltstapes (SALEWA Dyneema Sling). We are in vertical territory and depending on the exposure we will have to have equipment to secure a section or to descend the route.
• Harness. (Black Diamond, Unisex) It is recommended that the harness be adjustable at the legs.
• Gloves (Black Diamond Crag). Although it is not essential to wear gloves on the via ferrata, it is advisable to wear them, as they will protect your hands from blisters, calluses and other injuries.
• Footwear (SALEWA Wildfire Edge GTX) and mountain clothing.
• Glasses and front (PETZL Tikka).
• Backpack (Black Diamond Rock Blitz 15)

Technique of progression on a via ferrata

It is necessary to take it easy and measure each step. Often perceived as an easy activity for beginners, via ferrata is a risky activity that requires training, like any other activity in the vertical environment.

We have compiled a selection of technical tips for via ferrata progression with lanyards. (I RECOMMEND taking a look at the illustrations accompanying the technical articles that PETZL has on the subject, click AWHAT. They are not a substitute for training but help to reinforce concepts).

• Basic rule: always be secured to the cable. Always keep at least one strap connected to the safety cable.

In general, in order to advance along the via ferrata, it is necessary to use the Y-progression method. This consists of the two anchor ropes coming from the same rope, which has a forked end to which the carabiners are attached. At the other end of the rope is the dissipator and is attached to the harness.

To begin the progression, with the two anchor ropes attached to the safety cable, the fixed anchors will be circumvented by passing the carabiners one at a time. The idea is that there is always a carabiner attached to the cable and that the progression can be made with one of the ropes attached to the cable at all times.

• Only one person per cable run. On each span or distance between each anchorage, there must be only one person and a distance of at least four metres should always be maintained between one climber and another.

In case of fatigue: Resting position.

• To rest, it is possible to find a place to anchor.
• Carabiner attached to the rest point and operational. In this case, the third carabiner, which usually has the possibility of being attached to the heatsink for use as a resting point, will be useful.
• Relax your arms whenever you feel the need to do so.
• It is also a good idea to check that the other climbers are well positioned before resting.

When to use the rope?

• In any situation, in addition to the energy absorbing element,
• It is also advisable to secure with a rope.

• To use a rope, the team must be organised in the same way as in climbing, with a leader with sufficient knowledge to belay the seconds.

Caution: via ferrata lanyards are not designed for persons weighing less than 40 kg and more than 120 kg.

How are via ferratas classified? How is the difficulty of a via ferrata measured?

It follows the new Hüsler scale, which will help you not to get confused: K1 (easy) , K2 (slightly difficult) , K3 (somewhat difficult) , K4(difficult) , K5 (very difficult) and K6 (extremely difficult).

(YOU MAY BE INTERESTED IN: Via ferrata grading system)

The most famous via ferrata in Spain

Here is a selection of 7 ferratas. They are distributed all over Spain. To the brief description we add the degree of difficulty and an approximate time of ferrata, to the activity we will have to add the time of approach and return.

• The via ferrata La Hermida (K3, 1h30′ ferrata)has the honour of being considered the longest in Spain. It is located in Cantabria, in the municipality of Peñarrubia, in the gorge of the River Debate, halfway from the coast to Picos de Europa. Managed by a company, free access, but we must register.
• Via ferrata Baumes Corcades (K4, 2 h25′ ferrata) in Centelles (Barcelona) is one of the most popular, you will have to book a ticket to access. Lateral passages, a 68-metre Nepalese bridge, make the route a sporting itinerary that will put you to the test.
• Via ferrata Sant Feliu de Guíxols or Cala del Molí cove (K3, 1h30′ of ferrata) is a classic on the Costa Brava. It runs alongside the sea, so you can get an idea of how popular it is. Choose low season or midweek.
• In the heart of the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park is the via ferrata of the Sorrosal waterfall (K3, 1h30′ of ferrata)The route crosses the waterfall wall on the left. The route crosses the wall of the waterfall on the left side. A bridge, several stairs and a small tunnel make it very varied and entertaining. Closed during the winter.
• Via ferrata Sickles of Priego or Las Buitreras (K4, 1h30′ ferrata) is located in Cuenca, between the villages of Cañamares and Priego in Cuenca, on the river Escabas. The first section is very vertical, after that we will have a horizontal traverse. You can see many vultures and birds, but due to restrictions during the nesting season it is closed. Consult before you go.
• The via ferrata of the Tajo de Ronda o La Sevillana (K2) , located in a privileged place, ideal for beginners, easy but very exciting. The Via ferrata del Tajo de Ronda was used by the workers of La Sevillana in the 1920s to support the pits with masonry walls to protect the mills and water channels in the area.
• The via ferrata of the Devil's Window is located at the foot of the well-known natural viewpoint of Ventano del Diablo, in the village of Villalba de la Sierra, just 21km from the city of Cuenca. Two routes (K3 and K4).

(If you are looking for a particular via ferrata, I RECOMMEND that you visit the catalogue of itineraries reviewed on deandar.com (click on HERE).