Climbing harnesses: buying and comparison guide

Climbing equipment / Photo: Tommy Lisbin
Climbing equipment / Photo: Tommy Lisbin

In the sport of climbing, the treatment of ropes and harnesses is essential. The essential thing is to find a harness option that suits the needs of the athlete. In this guide you will find the key to understanding the different types of climbing harnesses available. Use this guide and comparison of climbing harnesses to assist you in your buying process. It has been compiled from an analysis of the discipline and recommendations based on the experience of professional climbing athletes. If you are thinking of buying your new climbing harnesses, especially if you are a professional climber, read on.

Rock climbing harnesses

In the climbing discipline the harness is the fundamental element that enables climbing and abseiling with ropes. The harness includes gear loops, a safety loop, leg loops and hard points for belaying. The treatment of the harness technique will vary depending on the type of climbing, whether it is an outdoor, gym or sport climbing type, the harness may vary depending on the model and its characteristics.

Before we introduce you to three types of harnesses for men and women in the following sections, you should know that lighter harnesses often have less cushioning and are more suitable for 1 or 2-pitch sport climbs, while heavier harnesses generally have more padding making them the ideal choice for all-day routes where the climber may be on the wall for hours on end.

Climbing harnesses for men

Here are our top picks for men's harnesses of all kinds: lightweight, high performance and comfort.

The best of the moment: Black Diamond Momentum Speed Adjust

This is the most recommended harness for beginner climbers and the best of the moment. The Black Diamond Momentum Harness will not disappoint. It is a very comfortable and versatile harness that provides the climber with four gear loops that allow ample space to carry your cams, a haul loop and a waistbelt that will make you feel very flexible even after a long day's trek through the rocks.

On the other hand, the adjustable leg loops also facilitate the adjustment and subsequent loosening of the harness. They are also ideal for novices because they have an additional safety advantage: Momentum's speed-adjustment belt buckle helps provide faster adjustments and offers additional security over non-preloaded waist belts.

Best lightness and performance: Petzl Hirundos

What best defines the Petzl Hirundos harness is the high performance climbing accessory that keeps the climber protected and unburdened. It has a slim design with Fruseframe technology. It is a slim, lightweight harness that is best suited for alpine or sport climbers. In addition, its thermoformed foam optimises weight distribution to prevent pressure points from forming, and its DoubleBack HD buckle system makes it quick and easy to adjust.

On the other hand, Petzl's Hirundos harness also features ultra-flexible leg loops, four gear loops and two tool holder slots that give the climber plenty of room to hang all their gear. Offering a wide range of movement, ultra-lightweight design, quick-drying material and easy belt adjustment, the Hirundos is the ideal performance harness.

Best Trad Climbing and Comfort: Black Diamond Big Gun

The Big Gun harness from the famous and prestigious Black Diamond brand has been designed specifically for long, multi-pitch days and big walls. The Black Diamond Big Gun will provide you with comfort that you will appreciate when you need it most. This harness features seven colour-coded gear loops and will help keep you organised even when you're carrying the heaviest of loads.

On the other hand, as for other features of this harness, two colour-coded belay loops and a full strength loop complete the full set of features offered by Big Gun.

Climbing harnesses for women

Here are our top picks for women's harnesses of all kinds: lightweight, high performance and comfort.

The best of the moment: Black Diamond Primrose Speed Adjust

In the world of women's climbing, the best harness of the moment is undoubtedly the Primrose Speed Adjust model from the renowned Black Diamond brand. It is an ideal harness for the newest and most versatile female climbers. It has very similar characteristics to the men's harness we have already mentioned, but with an adjustment adapted to the female body of a woman.

Among its features we can mention the following: four gear loops for draws or cams, custom fit for women, full strength loop, speed adjustment wear belt, which has been threaded before for safety and facilitates the different adjustments of the harness. We cannot fail to mention, finally, that it is very affordably priced.

Best lightness and performance: Petzl Selena

There is no denying that the Petzl brand is an expert in making high performance products specifically designed for sport climbers. The Selena harness model for women is a sport harness designed for women that lives up to the company's reputation for creating masterpieces: it combines light weight and an aerodynamic profile to offer a simple harness, but endurance on the toughest of walls.

The Petzl Selena has been constructed and designed using the well-known Endoframe technology, thanks to which the weight is evenly redistributed throughout the harness to avoid pressure points. On the other hand, the elastic leg loops give the climber the freedom of movement while hanging in the harness, without the need for additional buckles.

Best Trad Climbing and Comfort: Misty Mountain Cadillac Women's

Last but not least, we find the Cadillac model from the brand Misty Mountain which has, without a doubt, the best climbing harness for women because of the comfort and durability of the main functions. The Cadillac harness is the best recommendation for all-day comfortable trad climbing. This harness provides a lush layer of padding material which in turn is abrasion resistant.

Other features of this harness include six symmetrical gear rings and a two-layer waistbelt, so you can stay organised and comfortable, no matter how heavy your climbing rack is. The Cadillac harness from Misty Mountain is a safe bet.